Exterior Surfactant Leaching Exterior Paint Solution

Surfactant Leaching: Concentration of water-soluble ingredients on latex paint, creating a blotchy, sometimes glossy appearance, often with a tan or brownish cast. More likely with tinted paints than with white or factory-coloured paints.

Possible Causes:

Painting in cool, humid conditions or just before they occur. The longer drying time allows the paint’s water-soluble ingredients — which would normally evaporate, or be leached out by rain or dew — to rise to the surface before paint thoroughly dries.

Mist, dew or other moisture drying on the painted surface shortly after it has dried.


Avoid painting in the late afternoon if cool, damp conditions are expected in the evening or overnight. If the problem occurs in the first day or so after the paint is applied, the water-soluble material can sometimes be rinsed off rather easily. Fortunately, even more stubborn cases will generally weather off in a month or so. Surfactant leaching should not affect the ultimate durability of the coating.

Exterior Painting – Frequently asked questions

Can I paint over aluminum/vinyl siding?
Yes. Always make sure the surface is cleaned to remove any chalk or dirt. Never apply paint that is darker than the original painted surface on vinyl siding.

Do I need to wash my house before I paint?
Yes. Surfaces must be clean before painting. Thoroughly wash with a house cleaner and water solution, making sure to remove any and all mildew. Rinse and allow to dry.

How much paint do I need?
Be sure to utilize our Paint Gallon Calculator in the Project Planner section to help you determine how many cans to buy for your next project.

To achieve one-coat coverage, paint should be applied at a maximum of 400 square feet per gallon. Rough or textured surfaces may require more paint. On these areas allow for 25-30 square feet per gallon. Some bright colors may require multiple costs to achieve sufficient hide.

How do I apply the paint?
When using more than one gallon of the same product, mix the gallons together to insure color and sheen uniformity. Two coats of this paint will provide maximum protection.

How do I paint shingles & shakes?
Shingles offer natural breaking points, paint in a vertical direction.

How do I care for freshly painted surfaces?
We suggest not washing your newly painted surface for at least 30 days. After that time, dirt and stains may be removed using a mild, non-abrasive cleanser and water.

I have never painted the exterior of my home before….?
When painting the exterior of your home always start with a clean surface; paint one side of the house at a time, starting with the highest point; apply a full even coat to one side of the house at a time and always paint the trim last.

What conditions are best for painting my house?
Generally you should only paint when the surface is between 50F and 85F. High temperatures cause the water in the paint to evaporate too quickly, while low temperatures prevent latex from covering properly. Always avoid painting in direct sunlight, strong winds, or when rain is expected within 8 hours.

What tools do I need?
Depending on your project and the type of structure you are painting, paints may be applied with a nylon/polyester brush, a paint pad or spray unit.

What is the proper way to use spray equipment?
It is always safe to operate spray equipment with safety cautions. Use respiratory and eye protection. All spray units are different and it is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.



Rollers are useful for painting large areas and are available in different sizes and textures. Foam and mohair sleeves are good for covering smooth surfaces; wood and deep-pile synthetic suit rough surfaces. Cut in edges before using on a wall.

1. Rollers are suitable for applying latex paint: oil-based paint can be difficult to clean off from the cover. Prepare for painting by pouring a quantity of paint into a clean, dry roller tray.

2. Place the roller sleeve over the roller. Dip the roller in the paint, rolling it up and down the incline of the tray until it is well covered.

3. Apply the paint randomly by running the roller up and down the wall and from side to side. Spread the paint as evenly as possible, and try not to let the roller slide across the wall.

4. To complete one area, lift off in an upward stroke. When you move to an adjacent area, roll over the wet edges to blend. Be careful not to splash paint onto the woodwork.


Paint pads are interchangeable with rollers. They are ideal for applying water-based paint to large areas. Although they can be used with oil-based paints, it is possible that the cleaning solvents required to remove oil-based paint could damage the sponge. Paint pads can be used to paint metalwork and wood.

1. Pour the paint into a paint-pad tray or a roller tray. Lightly dip the pad into the paint, keeping the pad flat. Do not submerge it. If overloaded, wipe off the excess. Alternatively, buy an applicator to apply paint to the pad.

2. Cover the surface randomly in a light, crisscross motion. Do not press too hard or the paint will drip. Reload the pad only when you can see that the paint coverage is beginning to thin.

Furnace Doesn’t Work

Problem: Furnace is dead, or doesn’t turn on when the thermostat is raised.

Background: What are often thought to be furnace emergencies are caused by the thermostat being set or operated wrong, by having the power to the furnace cut off, or by not having fuel or a working pilot light. (Important: If you detect gas odor in your home or in the furnace area, take immediate precautions.

What to do: First double-check to be sure that power is reaching the furnace. Check the circuit breakers or fuses at the main service box. If reset breakers or replaced fuses blow again, call a service technician. Also check to see that any switches on or near the furnace are turned on. Be sure that the thermostat is set in the “heat” position, and that it is set above room temperature. If the furnace doesn’t come on after an interval, check the furnace itself. If you have a gas furnace, the gas valve should be turned to “on.” If you have an oil furnace, check the fuel level in the tank. If the furnace has a pilot light, check to make sure that it is lit. If not, relight it carefully, following the instructions in the owner’s manual or on the unit.

(Warning: If you smell gas, leave the area immediately and call a technician. The lighting instructions for a gas furnace should explain the procedure to use to determine whether the gas valve is good. If the test procedure indicates the gas valve is bad, turn off furnace gas valve and main gas valve and call a technician. Also call for help if the pilot light does not stay lit after several tries.)

Special advice: Most furnace controls will have a reset switch. If the furnace starts after the reset switch is pushed, but shuts off again, call a technician. Gas furnaces equipped with an electronic ignition device, instead of a pilot light, have a gas valve designed for slow opening. It first opens part way to let just enough gas through for safe ignition of the burners. After a few seconds it opens fully to allow proper flame height. The burners should light within 2 seconds after the gas valve opens. If air in the valve and lines prevents the flame from being established within 6 seconds or so, the system will go into “lock-out.” To reset, wait 1 minute and turn the thermostat to a setting below room temperature. Then turn back up to a setting above room temperature; this should re-start the ignition cycle.

Helpful hint: If the furnace works, but heat is not circulating, the problem may be with the blower or the blower belt. If the flame on burner is yellow or blue, or lifts off of the burner, call for a technician to adjust. Check your owner’s manual for annual maintenance suggestions and keep the furnace and its components free of lint or dirt accumulation.



Making a well-defined line between two colors in a cornet – for example, where walls meet a ceiling – is known as beading. Wait until the paint on the ceiling is thy, and then holding the brush parallel to, but a short distance away from, the ceiling, press it against the wall, splaying the bristles. This will create a bead of paint that should be pushed steadily into the edge or cornet. Work across the wall.


Painting the edges around a window or door frame before the rest of the wall is known as cutting in. Once all the edges have been painted in this way, deal with the remainder of the room, blending in the fresh paint with the edges.

1. With a small brush, carefully paint narrow strips, about 1-2 in (2.5-5 cm) wide, at right angles to the frame. Leave a very small gap between the painted strips and the edge of the door frame.

2. Paint over the strips of color with a line parallel to the frame, Make sure to run the bristles close to the edge of the flame to create a well-defined line.

Painting tips & tricks

Rub petroleum jelly on the hinges and door knobs before you start to paint a door. If you get paint on them, they will wipe off easily.

To keep white paint from yellowing, add 2 drops of black paint to each Gallon of white.

When painting ceilings, cut a child’s rubber ball in half and put your paint brush in one of the halves to catch the drips.

An old pair of swimming goggles will protect your eyes from paint splatters and drips when painting ceilings.

When painting, protect your hands and face with moisturizer. Cleanup will be easier and the moisturizer will prevent paint from seeping into the pores.

To stop paint from dripping, punch a few holes in the rim of the paint can. When the brush is wiped against the edge, the paint flows back into the can. The lid covers the holes so the paint won’t dry out.

Before pouring paint from a can, cover the rim with masking tape. After pouring, remove the tape — the rim will be clean and the cover will fit tightly.

To remove lumps from paint: Cut a piece of screen to fit the inside of the paint can. Set it on top of the paint and let it float down to the bottom of the can. It will take all the lumps with it, trapping them at the bottom of the can.

When painting a room, dip a small card into the paint so that you have the exact colour with you and can match accessories in store.

When painting inside corners, trim the paint brush bristles to a V to save strokes and spread paint more easily.

When you poke a paint brush into corners or allow it to rest on the bottom of the paint can, the bristles curl and stray. To straighten natural bristles (not synthetics), try wrapping the brush in a couple of thicknesses of damp cloth and press gently with an iron. The steam and cloth binding do the job. Only light pressure is needed. Let the bristles cool before you unwrap the brush.

When painting old woodwork fill in the holes or cracks with a mixture of flour and some of the paint you are using. It hardens like cement and matches perfectly.

Bathroom Demolition

Bathroom demo can get messy. The reason? Even when you shut off waterlines, there is still water in traps, in toilet tanks, and in the water lines themselves. When you undo a pipe connection, some water will inevitably get on the floor, where it will mix with the dirt on the bottom of your shoes. Place old towels or scraps of carpet at the doorway for when you have to run out for tools. And have buckets and towels ready, no matter how dry your project looks initially.

Removing an old sink and vanity

Step 1. Turn off the water at the shutoff valves. If there are no shutoff valves, turn off the water at the main valve or water-well pressure tank.

Step 2. Single-lever faucets come with cop per tubes that extend down from the faucet valve. Remove the nuts that hold the supply risers to the wall-mounted valves.

Step 3. On bathroom sinks with dual faucets, each faucet is connected to its shutoff valve with a separate supply riser. Remove the under-sink nuts using a basin wrench.

Step 4. To remove the sink’s waste line connection put a pail under the trap and loosen the nuts using adjustable pliers. Turn the nuts counterclockwise.

Step 5. Remove any retaining clips or other kinds of hardware that hold the sink to the countertop. Cut the caulk seal around the sink using a sharp knife. Carefully lift it off the countertop.

Step 6. Loosen the vanity top by removing the hold-down screws at the corners of the cabinet; then lift it off and set it aside. To quickly free the vanity cabinet, cut around the shutoff valves.

Step 7. Remove the screws that hold the cabinet back to the wall. Then cut through any caulk or paint along the wall or floor that may hold the base in place. Pull the vanity away from the wall and discard it.

Removing a bathtub

The easiest way to remove a tub is in one piece. Once it’s free from the wall and floor, tip it on its edge, and get some help to move it. Putting an old blanket or a canvas tarp under the tub will make it easier to slide across the floor. If you have to move it down a flight of stairs, get a couple of extra people to help.

If you can’t move the tub in one piece, it must be broken into smaller sections. Cast iron tubs can be broken with a mason’s hammer or a sledgehammer. steel and fiberglass tubs can be cut with a reciprocating saw. Be sure to wear eye and ear protection. Warn others in the house that you are about to engage in this demolition.

Moving Large Tubs or Showers


When you are planning the space and selecting fixtures, you should also devise a plan for removing your old tub or shower and installing the new unit. When selecting a new fixture, make sure you can carry it through the house. But if your heart is set on a unit that cannot be moved through existing hallways and doors, consider ways to move it through an outer wall. This can be as easy as removing a first-floor window or as complex as removing a section of wall on another floor.


Use only a flashlight or a battery-powered work light to light the area below the vanity. If water drips onto a hardwired electrical light–especially a trouble light with a built-in receptacle–and causes a short, you could get hurt.

Beet – Plant care guides

Beets come in a glistening array of colors, from garnet red to red-and-white striped to deep gold to creamy white, but the real hidden treasure is that the entire beet, from its robust and flavorful root to its buttery green top, is sweet and delicious.

About This Plant

Beets’ original ancestors were leafy plants, without bulbous roots, that grew in the moderate climates of the Mediterranean region. Like their cousin, Swiss chard, beet greens are packed with nutrition. However, it’s the roots for which beets are best known.

Site Selection

Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost.

Planting Instructions

For sweet, tender beets grow the plants in cool, moist weather. In the north, plant beets throughout the spring and in mid- to late summer. Start planting 30 days before your last spring frost date and continue with successive plantings at 3- to 4-week intervals into July, depending on how hot your summer is. In the south, plant beets in the fall and early spring. Beet roots are ready to harvest in 45 to 65 days; greens can be harvested as soon as they are large enough to eat.

Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep (1 to 1 1/2 inches deep in hot weather), 1 inch apart. In dry climates, plant in a well-soaked, 6- to 8-inch-wide furrow about 3 inches deep. Cover seeds with 1/2 to 3/4- inches of soil. For greens only, sow seeds 1/2 inch apart in all directions.


Thin seedlings to stand 1-1/2 to 2 inches apart 10 to 14 days after emergence. A month later thin plants to about 4 inches apart. Eat thinnings for greens. (No thinning is necessary if growing for greens only.) Contact your local county extension office for controls of common beet pests, such as leaf miners and leafhoppers.




Remove the furniture and wall hangings or place them in the center of the room, and cover with a drop cloth. Remove light fixtures from the walls if possible, and cover outlets with plastic bags. Cover the floor with a drop cloth. Now clean and prepare the surfaces to be painted. The ceiling should be the starting point, and then work across the walls. Paint the woodwork last.


Ideal for walls and ceilings, latex is available as a matte or silk finish. It is water soluble and dries quickly.

1. Work in areas of 2 sq ft (60 sq cm) in light, crisscross strokes. Do not apply the paint too thickly.

2. Finish with an upward stroke. Move to the adjacent area. Do not apply more coats until the first coat is dry.



Sieve paint if you see bits of debris in it, or if a skin has formed. A just-opened new can does not need to be sieved.

1. Use a knife to cut around the top skin. Remove the skin by carefully pulling it to one side of the can.

2. Stretch muslin or old nylon hose across the bucket and pour the paint through. Store the paint in an airtight jar.


For large areas use a wide brush or roller. Tackle intricate areas with an artist’s brush. A range of in-between brush sizes is available.

1. Use only new brushes for priming as they may shed bristles. To remove debris, flick the brush against your hand.

2. Dip a third of the bristle length into the paint. Dab the bristles against the bucket side to remove any excess paint.



Once a can of paint has been opened dirt may contaminate it or a skin may form on the surface. To prevent any contamination, always replace the lid after use and store the can upside down.

1. To prevent debris on the can surface from falling into the paint; brush the rim with a paintbrush.

2. Work around the rim of the lid with the blunt edge of a flat-bladed knife, prying the lid until it springs open.

3. Stir the paint with a piece of wooden doweling in wide and narrow circles to give a consistent color.



It makes sense to work out of a paint bucket rather than paint can. It will enable you to transfer as much paint as you need at one time, and a bucket with a handle can be hung from a ladder. Once you have mixed the paint, pour as much as you need into the bucket. Line the bucket with aluminum foil before you fill it, as paint can be difficult to remove. Place the foil with the shiny surface up.



If a painted surface is in poor condition and the paint is flaking, you will have to strip it off before repainting. Use a wide scraper to remove the paint. If the paint is stubborn, apply a chemical stripper. When the surface is bare, smooth it with medium-grain sandpaper wrapped around a cork block, lithe surface has been painted with tempera; seal it with a stabilizing solution after you have sanded it down.


It is worth filling even small cracks and holes for a professional result. You can buy filler as ready-mixed paste or as a powder that must be mixed before use. Always check manufacturers’ instructions before preparing the paste. The average drying time is 30 minutes. Fill large holes with several layers of filler if necessary. After filling, sand down the surface. Filler can be difficult to remove from equipment, so if you are mixing your own, line the container with a plastic bag to avoid a messy cleaning job afterward.

1. Stat by brushing away loose debris with a small decorating brush.

2. Wet the hole with a small, damp brush to ensure that the filler stays inside the hole.

3. Press the filler into hole with a putty knife. Allow filler to dry between layers. Wipe off excess.

4. Smooth with the wet blade of a putty knife. Once dry, sand with fine-grain sandpaper.