Top 7 Shades of November 2018 – House Painting Bangalo

1. Block Design is New Trend
Trendy lines and crisscross blocks will be dominating in the next year. This mesmerizing design gives a taste of fine minimalistic soothing design to your living room. Now professional house painter who can paint it is affordable too 😉

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2. Brown & Cream – Never out of style
A calming white foundation — walls, curtains, and furniture — welcomes any color. Brown grounds this classic color scheme, as seen in this living room’s furniture and window treatments. Find professional house painter in Banglore with free colour consultancy with us.

House painters in bangalore
3. Blue is the new Black
When it comes to timeless neutral color, various shades of blue create interest. Texture is key when creating monochromatic color schemes, the wooden floor adds charm to it. Finding the right combination of colours is easy with Yes Painter – free colour consultancy and professional house painter in Bangalore.

House painters in bangalore
4. Red – Colour of Love
“Red never goes out of style. It’s full of life — always fresh, always fun to wake up to. We go for reds with less blue in them and more orange because they’re happier to live with.” — Pavita N , Architect.

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5. Gray Needs perfect contrast
Finding the right combination of colours is easy with Yes Painter – free colour consultancy and professional house painter in Bangalore.

House Painting service in bangalore
6. Ink Blue with White Contrast
For a small wall in the home, ink blue creates a perfect contract with white. Green leaves adds a topping to it. Finding the right combination of colours is easy with Yes Painter – free colour consultancy and professional house painter in Bangalore.

House painters in bangalore
7. For the love of Pink
Finding the right combination of colours is easy with Yes Painter – free colour consultancy and professional house painter in Bangalore.

House Painting service in bangalore
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Visit: https://medium.com/@yespainter17/top-7-shades-of-november-2018-h ouse-painting-bangalore-4e446fb0eef9

Best Home Painting Service Providers In Bangalore

House Painting is a once-in-a-while project and most homeowners prefer to paint once in a great while. If that’s your mindset, there’s good news.
It’s easy to now extend the life of an exterior House Painting by several years or more. Let us update ourselves as how can we improve the life of a painting job. By taking simple cautionary steps while painting you can increase the lifespan of your paint up to 5-8 years. Home painting services in Bangalore by Paintmywalls will make sure that you have a safe and quality house painting experience.
Start with a coat of primer
Priming creates a tackier surface to which paint can tightly adhere, reducing chances that it will peel or blister. As a bonus, the House Paint will have more uniform color and sheen.
Choose exterior colours carefully
Earth tones tend to have good color retention; other colours, such as bright blue and bright red, tend to fade more quickly. Consult your colour consultant and select colours which don’t fade too quickly.
Apply thicker coats
The thicker the paint, the more protection you’ll get. So, apply your paint liberally and never water it down. Paints are carefully formulated to be used as-is for the longest-lasting protection.
Protection from sunlight while painting
Painting parts of the house that are in direct sunlight will cause the paint to dry too quickly, which can lead to visible seams, brush strokes, and unevenness. It is advised to paint an area that is on the other side of the house from where sunlight is directed.
Paint cannot properly adhere to damp surfaces, so wait for a few days to paint post washing or heavy rains. If it just drizzles, it is typically safe to resume painting after 24 hours of drying.
It’s advantageous to clean up your exteriors at least once a year to prevent the dirt build-up that rainwater cannot rinse away. Additionally, you should also plan to pressure wash your exterior approximately five years after your paint job.
Paintmywalls is the best painting service providers in Bangalore. We undertake both residential and commercial properties and will make sure that the customer expectations are met.

Visit: https://yespainter.com

Physical Contact with Electricity

Problem: Person suffers electrical shock.

Background: Electrical shock can paralyze chest muscles, making it impossible to breathe. Call immediately for medical help. If a victim is no longer in contact with the source of the electricity, and is not breathing, immediately give mouth- to-mouth resuscitation if possible. When the victim begins to breathe, treat for traumatic shock. Keep warm with clothing or blanket, and position feet higher than head to help blood reach the brain.

What to do: If you find someone in contact with live electricity indoors, don’t touch the person since the electricity could travel through them to you as well. Shut off the power by pulling the plug, turning the switch, or turning off the power at the circuit breaker. If you can’t turn off the power, you can try to free the victim using a dry rope or stick that won’t conduct electricity to you (use extreme caution and don’t use anything wet or made from metal to move the victim). Call for emergency medical assistance. If you find someone in contact with a live wire outdoors, call the fire or police department for emergency medical assistance. Then also call your electric utility company to tell them the exact location of the victim so they can immediately shut off the power.

Special advice: Power lines downed by storms or accidents are very dangerous; the body can act as a lightning rod and carry the current to the ground. Be alert for power lines, especially when working with scaffolds, ladders and tools, when in stalling antennas, when trimming trees or flying kites. Call the utility company to help locate underground conduits before digging in your yard. Don’t use electric mowers or power tools on a wet surface, and keep appliances away from water, including tubs and showers.

Helpful hint: Call for help if you must work near utility poles or power lines. Tennis shoes or work gloves will not protect you from electrical shock. Power company employees use special precautions, such as rubber protectors, insulating rubber safety gloves and hard hats, plus years of training, to keep them selves safe.

Phone Doesn’t Work

Problem: Phone doesn’t operate, emits excessive noise or rapid busy signal.

Background: Problems can stem from your phone set, the wiring in side your home, or in outside lines and switching equipment. A rapid busy signal means all phone circuits are busy; try your call again in a few minutes. Noise on phone may be caused by weather, aerial satellites, poor grounding, or other temporary conditions. (If the noise persists, the tips below may help you identify the problem.) Interference may also come from citizens band (CB) radios and AM/FM broadcast stations. In stalling a modular filter, available through stores that sell phone equipment, may help. Cordless phones (see Cordless Phone Defective) use radio frequencies and may receive interference from radio transmitters. If so, contact the cordless phone supplier or manufacturer for help.

What to do: First make sure all phones are hung up. If you have only one phone, take it to another home and plug it in. If it doesn’t work there, the problem is likely in the phone. If you have two or more phones, unplug them all. Then try each one—one at a time—in each phone jack. If a phone doesn’t work anywhere, the problem is most likely in that phone. If none work in one jack, the problem is with the jack. You might also borrow a friend’s phone and try it in each of your jacks. If it doesn’t work in one jack, that jack is the problem. If it doesn’t work in any jack, the problem may be in the line.
(Note: If you have installed new phone wire or jacks, you can test the installation by plugging a phone into the jack and listening for a dial tone. You should be able to interrupt the dial tone by dialing any single number other than 0. If the dial tone is not interrupted, reverse the wires at the jack. If you still don’t hear a dial tone, recheck the connections and equipment.)

Special advice: If there is no dial tone, make sure the line cord is firmly plugged into the jack and phone, and that the handset cord is firmly plugged in at both ends. If the phone won’t ring, check to see that the ringer switch is set to “on.” If so, note the ringer equivalence number (REN) on the bottom and ask your phone company if it requires more ringing power than is normal. If there is static, check for a loose handset cord or, if possible, try an other cord. (Some weather conditions, such as very low humidity, can cause static build-up.) If you get a dial tone, but can’t dial out, make sure the tone/pulse switch is set to “pulse” if you have rotary-only ser vice.

Helpful hint: If you have phone accessories—such as answering machines, speaker phones, or cordless phones—make sure they are working. If phones work without the added equipment, the problem may be with the accessories. If you have a phone connected to an answering machine and have a dial tone but can’t dial out, try plugging only the phone into the jack. If it works, you may have a compatibility problem and may need a 2-for-1 adaptor, available where phone equipment is sold.

CONSIDER THE SURFACE TYPE

Different surfaces require different treatments. Bare wood should be sanded and then primed, while stained wood should be treated with wood bleach. Surface texture should match the character of a room; for example, smooth paintwork may not suit an old house.

1. BARE PLASTER
Brush, prime, and seal with diluted latex paint.
2. BARE BRICK
Brush to remove debris, and then coat with masonry paint.

 

3. TEMPERA
Scrape. Seal with stabilizing solution. Paint with latex.
4. WALLPAPER
Although stripping is best, no vinyl can be painted over.

 

5. CERAMIC TILES
Coat with gloss or enamel, or strip for best results.
6. STAIN
Remove stain with wood bleach, seal, sand, and prime.

Painting Ceiling and Walls

PainterClick.com Offer tips for paint ceiling and walls as efficiently as possible without making a mess.

Surface Preparation
The first thing I do when painting a room spread professional-quality canvas drop cloths to cover and protect the floor. Spilled paint doesn’t soak through canvas as it does a bed sheet or other lightweight cloth, and canvas is safer to walk on. Working on a plastic drop cloth can be like painting on roller skates.
The plaster walls in the room needed some fairly extensive patching work. In this type of situation, I start by fixing all the questionable areas, taking care not to create a lot of dust that might get into fresh paint. Next,
I caulk all gaps between the trim (baseboard, window and door casing) and the walls with a high-quality paintable caulk. I smooth the caulk with a damp rag. Caulking always makes the finished paint job look better.
I also make sure that the room I’m painting has adequate lighting. Even if there is a lot of natural light,
I always have halogen work lights and clip-on parabolic lights handy.
The next step is prepping and priming the trim. Painting trim is a different kettle of fish, but I make sure that the trim paint overlaps the wall about 1/8 in. When the trim is primed, I begin work on the walls and ceiling, letting the finish coat on the trim covers any stray paint from the walls.

Priming
The ceiling and walls in the room had water stains from an old roof leak that had been fixed; also, the former owners of the house were heavy smokers, which left the ceiling and walls stained. So I decided to cover everything with a stain blocking primer. “BULLS EYE”.
The two steps to painting a large area are cutting in and rolling. Cutting in is brushing paint onto areas the roller won’t reach.
Painters naturally start at the top and work down; I stand on a ladder and paint everything I won’t be able reach comfortably from the floor. For cutting in, I never work out of the paint can but instead use a cut bucket. You can buy one or make one. I cut in with a 3-in. brush to give me a 3-in. band to roll into. Because the ceiling and walls are being painted with the same primer, I cut in the corners without being too careful, using the flat part of the brush on both sides of the corner.
Where the primer meets the prepped trim, I paint up to the edge of the trim using the narrow side of the brush, overlapping the wall primer onto the trim slightly but not being overly accurate with my line at this point. Overlapping coats at the edges of the trim creates a less stark line between the trim paint and the wall paint. When I’ve finished cutting in the upper parts of the room from the ladder, I work from the floor cutting in the rest.

Rolling equipment
Once the entire room is cut in, it’s on to the rolling. The first thing I need is a roller frame, which is the handle and holder for the roller pad. Roller frames come in an amazing array of widths and shapes, but I usually stick with the standard 9-in. model. I avoid cheap roller frames because they don’t hold up well.
The next-most-important tool for painting ceiling and walls is a telescoping extension pole. These poles come in various sizes, but for most rooms with flat ceilings, a 4-ft. pole that telescopes to 8 ft. or so works great.
I avoid screw-together extension poles; they’re a lot of trouble.
The extension pole has a broom-handle thread on one end that screws into the roller frame. This tool keeps me from running up and down a stepladder to paint ceilings. If I paint a ceiling without an extension pole,
I end up working directly under the roller, getting spattered as I paint.
Next, I need the correct roller pad for the job and paint I’m applying. For smooth surfaces, a roller pad with a short nap (1/4-in. to 1/2 in.) is fine. But if you are covering heavy stucco, you may need as much as a
1-1/2-in. nap. For the oil-based primer that I’m using for the job in the photos, I chose an inexpensive 3/8-in. nap roller pad good for any kind of paint.

Working out of a 5-gal. Pail
The two most common ways to get paint onto the roller are a standard paint pan, which I use for the finish coats, or a 5-gal. Bucket with a roller ramp hung on the rim. For the primer on this project, I needed about
2-1/2 gal. Of paint, so I poured that amount into the pail inserted the roller ramp and got to work.
The 5-gal. Bucket should be no more than half full, leaving most of the ramp exposed. I dip the roller pad slightly into the paint — about one-quarter of the way — and draw it up onto the ramp. Dipping the roller into the paint any deeper can make it drip all over the place.
I dip the pad several times while rolling it up and down the ramp until the pad is completely saturated.
Most ramps are made of expanded metal that distributes the paint evenly on the roller pad while allowing excess paint to drain back into the pail. When the roller pad is fully loaded, I place it near the top of the ramp and give it a quick downward push off the roller ramp to spin off any excess paint.

Ready to roll
I start rolling in one corner of the ceiling, working down the short side of the room first. I roll the paint in 3-ft. squares with each square overlapping the next slightly. (A 3-ft. by 3-ft. area is about what a properly loaded roller ought to cover.) For each square, I roll the paint on from side to side in compacted W or M formations: down straight, back up on a slight diagonal, then straight down again, overlapping each down stroke with the one before. But remember you’re painting, not spelling. Overlapping gives you even coverage and keeps you from missing any spots. Where the squares overlap my cut-in band, I try to keep the roller about 1 in. from the corner.
Once the ceiling is finished, I start on the walls. I first work my way along the top of each wall in similar
3-ft. squares. The small sections above windows and doors are done in shorter, smaller strokes.

Ropes, drips and runs
The biggest concern when rolling paint is that excess paint tends to build up on the outside edges of the roller pad and frame. Paint buildup leaves behind ropes, or heavy lines of paint, in the wake of the roller.
Going back over a section with the roller smoothes out any ropes or areas with too much paint from working with an overloaded pad. But it helps to get rid of the excess paint on the roller that is causing the ropes in the first place. When ropes begin to appear, I tilt the frame and pad slightly at an angle to the wall with just the end touching and roll it for a couple of inches. I repeat the process with the other side of the roller and then work the drips that have squeezed out into the area I’m painting. When I’m finished with a section, the paint should be a consistent thickness over the entire area.

Mix all your cans of finish paint for consistent color
Because I use a fast-drying primer, I can apply the finish coats almost immediately. For the room,
I gave the ceiling one coat of white finish paint, and the walls two coats.
For the finish coat, I roll the ceiling first so that any drips or spatter that I get on the walls will be covered with their finish coat. When cutting in the ceiling, I again overlap the finish paint slightly onto the walls.
It’s still not necessary to be extremely tidy; I just try not to leave any globs of paint on the walls.
Next is the final coat on the walls, and I don’t want to be short on paint. I also want a little paint left over in case I need to touch up or repair a wall in the future. But custom-mixed colors usually vary from can to can, which can be obvious if I have to buy an extra quart to finish a job.
The trick is to overbuy and then mix all the cans of paint together thoroughly before I start. Most paints cover around 400-sq. ft. of flat surface per 3.78 litre.
I’ve seen painters pour half of a gallon can into a container and then pour half of a second can into the first. They continue this process around until all the cans have been blended completely. Mixing paint in this manner is known as boxing, but I find it easier just to pour all the paint into a 5-gal. Bucket.

Be finicky on the final cut in
The time has finally arrived to take the extra effort to cut in neatly. I start at the ceiling line of one wall and cut it in as neatly as possible. It’s still okay if it’s not absolutely perfect; I’ll fine-tune the line on the final coat.
Again, I create the first horizontal line with a high quality 3-in. brush turned on edge. I then complete the band using the full 3-in. width. I also overlap onto the trim slightly, but I don’t go crazy. For the project featured here, the trim was to be white, which wouldn’t cover the teal wall paint well.

A paint pan minimizes ropes
Instead of working out of a 5-gal. Bucket, I use a roller pan for the finish coats on both the ceiling and walls. Loading the roller out of a paint pan gives me better control over ropes and drips. When filling a roller pan, I pour in just enough paint to fill the deep end of the pan. And again, I don’t let the entire roller submerge in the paint. When the roller is saturated, I give it a light twirl to spin off excess paint from the ends.
Roll the walls the same way I did on the primer coat, working in 3-ft. squares and making sure the paint is applied evenly. When the first coat is dry, I go over the walls with light sandpaper using a work light to illuminate lumps or debris that might need to be smoothed out.
Cutting in the second coat gives me the chance to fine-tune the line between the ceiling and walls. Working in an older home, I often find myself having to invent a straight line because the corners are uneven. I take my time and fill in any small gaps left from the first coat.
Don’t use masking tape to create a straight corner line, which can make an even bigger mess than you’re trying to prevent. Instead, take your time and trust yourself with the brush. You can’t do any damage that can’t be easily fixed with either wall or ceiling paint.
The roller pad I used for the first coat still had plenty of life in it after one coat, so I didn’t want to throw it out. But I couldn’t let it sit out overnight either, so I stuck it in the fringe. I just double-wrapped the roller pad {still on the frame} in old plastic grocery bags and set it next to the eggs and milk. Paint dries slowly at refrigerator temperatures. The next day, I let the roller come to room temperature and was ready to roll the next coat.
When I’m finished with the final coat, I use the curved part of a painter’s 5-in-1 tool to scrape most of the residual paint out of the roller, and then I throw the roller pad away.
There are gadgets on the market that are supposed to help with cleaning rollers. But cleaning a roller pad can shorten its limited life span and can even destroy a cheaper pad that has a cardboard core.
Throwing pads away may not be frugal, but besides being a pain, cleaning roller pads is inefficient. Every time I try cleaning a pad, there always seems to be a bit of residual paint that spoils whatever I try to paint next.
To store leftover paint, I secure the lid and store the can upside down. The next time I need it, the tint that settles to the bottom naturally mixes back into the paint.

Wallpaper Removal

I get so many questions on how to remove wallpaper. What’s the best way? What’s the easiest way?

1. Score the walls, this step will ensure the removal technique, penetrates the paper and loosens the glue. (It is worth the small investment to buy a scoring tool!)

2. There are a couple of methods and mixtures that I found to work well for taking down the paper. The mixtures, either equal parts of white vinegar and hot water or a quarter cup liquid fabric softener to each gallon of hot water. The trick is to make the water really hot! Applicators? For the white vinegar, I’ve found a spray bottle works the best. Saturate the wall and let it sit until you see the paper bubbling up and then peel the paper off using a wide putty knife to get under the paper. If you find it’s sticking, just spray and scrape, spray and scrape as you go.

3. If you choose the fabric softener route, put the mixture in a big five- gallon bucket and put a paint grid over the side. Use a paint roller to spread the mixture over the walls, and then simply scrape the wallpaper off.

4. When the paper is removed reapply the solutions to remove any paste residue. A window squeegee can make quick work of this job.

Wallpaper Problems

Wallpaper can add a lot of character to a space, but like anything else sometimes there are problems. Well, I can show you how to fix them.

1. For crayon or wax marks on wallpaper, aim your hairdryer on the spot to soften the wax and then wipe it away with a paper towel.

2. Or, try holding a few paper towels over the spot and running a hot iron over them. The heat will transfer the wax to the towels. Just be careful not to burn your fingers.

3. For a grease stain on your wallpaper, grab the baby powder. Rub it into the spot, and let it sit for a little while then brush it away with a soft paintbrush.

4. If you’re wary about hanging pictures on your wallpaper, try this: Cut an “X” into the paper with a sharp utility knife. Carefully peel back the four flaps you’ve created and drive the nail into the wall under the paper. Then if you ever need to move the picture you can simply glue the flaps back in place.

5. Just remember to test any cleaning solution in a hidden spot first to make sure you’re not going to damage your wallpaper.

Wallpaper Cutouts

If you’re looking for a quick and easy change for your decor, pre-pasted wallpaper cutouts are the answer. They stick on the wall anywhere and peel off when you want to change the look.

1. Make sure that your wall is nice and clean. You may even want to vacuum it to get rid of any excess dust.

2. Arrange the wallpaper cut outs on the wall using the small dot stickers included in the package.

3. When you’re happy with a design get a small bucket of water and a new sponge.

4. Remove the wallpaper cutouts one at a time from your design . Remember to remove the adhesive dot. Use the sponge to moisten the back of the cut out making sure that you get all of the edges. Hold it there for at least five seconds.

5. Put the cutout back on the wall, and then carefully smooth it out with a paper towel. That’s all there is to it. If you decide to change the decor, you can remove the cut outs by pulling up an edge and peeling them off. Clean the adhesive off the wall with a little water.

Painting of Home in Mumbai

We present to you the one stop solution for all your painting agonies and hassles-Paintmywalls. Providing you with the best of the house painting services we have our excellently trained professional painters who do not compromise on anything to bring the smile of contentment on your face. We take the painting of your house so seriously that even after our work is over, we send our brand managers to assess the quality of the paint and help you with post painting cleaning thus making us the best professional painting service in Mumbai.

We always provide you with the modern designs and even if it is texture painting and also provide you with 100% commitment to finish the work for you in the best way possible. The interior home painters are extremely well trained professionals as a result of which they convert your house to your dram space within a short time and do not compromise on what you would want. We provide you good quality paints and give you the best painting services in Mumbai. We want to ensure that the customers who visit us would never want to leave our services and join elsewhere.

As far as the cost effectiveness is concerned, our painting contractors in Mumbai charge much less than other prices and we do not aspire to rip off the pockets of our customers. What we want is a lifetime relationship with you which is why we will always instruct our wall painters to fulfill all your demands and provide you with such professional service that when you want to repaint your house walls, you definitely reach out to us. Our work has earned us a lot of important and high-end clients but that does not make us sit back, we always aspire to be a part of everyone’s household and prove ourselves to them and become the best painting service, provider.

Source: https://paintmywalls.in/