How to Paint a Ceiling

Always paint the ceiling before walls or woodwork.

As long as you don’t have a lot of furniture to clamber over, painting a ceiling is fairly straightforward.
Firstly sheet up everything which is in danger of getting paint on it. No matter how careful you are, paint splashes have a way of finding exposed surfaces.
Use a stepladder, preferably one with a platform to hold tools or a paint container. If you haven’t got steps, strong plastic milk or beer crate or a wooden chair should be adequate.

The golden rule, whether using proper or improvised scaffold, is NEVER to over-stretch.

If you are right-handed work from right too left and vice-versa.
Painting a ceiling is easier if you use a roller, unless the ceiling is very small in a cupboard or toilet, especially with artexed or wood-chipped ceilings any ceiling with a rough patterned surface).
When painting with a brush, use a large flat brush 6 to 8 inches wide.
You can also use a small brush 1 to 2 inches wide to get into corners,
Cut along the edge of the ceiling and for cutting round the light rose and any other awkward bits.
Starting in one corner on the window side of the room, paint in sections about 2ft square.
Work across the ceiling doing a strip at a time.
When using a roller it is a good idea to use one with an extension handle. Most roller handles have an open end into which you can push an old broom handle, which will do the job.
Using a small brush (about 2″ size will do) cut in all round the edge of the ceiling and round the ceiling.
Starting in one corner roll about a Metro Square and work across the room in strips the same as with a brush.
If you are using a long handle on your roller it means your paint tray or scuttle “a square bucket wide enough for your roller size” can be kept conveniently on the floor at all times.

Interior Painting Ideas

Guaranteed to Bring Your Walls Back to Life!

There are many different interior paint ideas you’ll discover that can be used to add style, and change the look of your rooms. As you begin decorating the rooms of your home.

Interior paint ideas are about being creative and you can be as creative as you wish. Plus, you shouldn’t have a problem when it comes to controlling your budget.

That’s because most of the materials you will need can be acquired for a small amount of money. However, you should remember that although interior paint ideas do not have to be expensive, creating your designs with them, can take quite a bit of your time.

So, be patient, because hurrying your paint designs will often result in an unrewarding outcome.

The following are some of the different ways you can use interior paint ideas to dress up the look of your walls:

Rag Rolling – Rag rolling is done by rolling up a rag as you would a magazine or newspaper, and then rolling it with your hands over the wet paint that has already been applied to the wall.

Stencilling – Stenciling is one of the best interior paint ideas because it is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to decorate your walls. Stenciling works by painting the areas that have been cut out of a template.

Then once the template is removed, a defined pattern or design remains. You can create your own stencils, if you have the proper materials, or you can purchase them at craft or specialty stores. Stencils come in various sizes and designs, and you can place them on any part of your wall to either create a picture, or boarder.

You should remember, however, that it is a good idea to use a darker or light color for your stenciling patterns to contrast with the main color of the wall.

Bagging – After the wall has been painted you can then use the bagging interior paint ideas to create interesting wall patterns, by placing a cloth that has been bunched up into a bag, and then dragging it over the wall.

Sponge Painting – For sponging interior paint ideas all you require is a simple sea sponge, and a tray to hold the glaze paint of your choice. You can then proceed to sponge the wall as intricately or loosely as you would like to create the desired effect you want. You will find that with sponging, you can create a lovely marble look on the wall.

Other interesting interior paint ideas you can create if you are more adventurous include dragging, stippling, combing, granite finish and marbleizing.

Types of paint that you should look into for your painting project include:

• Latex

• Latex flat enamel

• Alkyd

• Enamel

• Epoxy

As you can see there are several great interior paint ideas for you to check out and use to create some of the most wonderfull designs on your room walls. Take your time decorating your rooms, and you will love the result of your work.

How to Paint a Concrete Floor


If you expect to use more than one container of paint, open them all and mix them together for a uniform color. You do not need to thin a paint for use on a floor One exception is if you use a sprayer that requires thinned paint.


Using a nylon brush, such as a 2½ sash brush, cut in the sides and corners with primer This creates a sharp, clean edge. Start this way for the top coat as well.


Using a roller pad with the nap length recommended by the manufacturer, apply a primer coat to the surface. Start at the corner farthest away from the door, and back up as you work. Allow the primer to dry for at least 8 hours.


With a clean roller pad, apply the first top coat. Make the top coat even but not too thick, then let it dry for 24 hours. if you choose to add another top coat, work the roller in another direction to cover any thin spots. Let the final coat dry another day before you walk on it.

Interior painting problems

Covering Stains, Grease, Graffiti, and Problem Surfaces.

Most folks find out about stains and problem surfaces after it is too late — during, or after they are done, painting. Repeated coats of paint won’t cover properly because the problem areas bleed through the new paint.

Special Problem Areas

• Old paint, oil or lead based
• Grease, oil, mold, or mildew
• Graffiti, ball point ink, permanent markers, paint
• Bad plaster, crumbling or water damaged

Old oil and lead base paints often used special pigments that bleed through new latex paints. Light colors might not bleed at all while some darker colors cannot be covered even with several coats of paint. You can test a small area, let it dry for 24 hours, and check for coverage.

To seal the old paint, you need to use a special primer. Normally, it will be an oil base primer especially made to cover oil base paint before painting with latex paint. Be sure to get one designed for this purpose. Be sure to follow the directions for drying time before applying the first coat of paint.
Grease, oil, mold, or mildew should be cleaned with a household clearner first. Next, clean with a solution made for use before painting, such as Soilax. You can purchase it at a paint or hardware store. After the soiled areas are dry, paint them will a special primer designed for hiding these kind of spots.

Porters–Stay-Kill–primer works well. You can prime the entire surface, or just cover up the soiled areas. Be sure to follow the directions for drying time before applying the first coat of paint.
Graffiti, ball point ink, permanent markers, and paint can be covered with a special primer designed for hiding these kinds of spots. Porters Stay-Kill primer works well. You need to cover the soiled areas. Be sure to follow the directions for drying time before applying a second coat of primer or the first coat of paint.
Bad plaster, crumbling or water damaged needs to be cleaned first. Use a scrub brush and water to remove all the loose plaster. If there’s extensive damage, you should repair the damaged plaster, too. Water damage causes some of the chemicals in plaster to bleed through new paint. It’s a good idea to use a primer like Porters Stay-Kill before painting. Be sure to follow the directions for drying time before applying a second coat of primer or the first coat of paint.

Painting tips . . .
Buy good quality paint. Porters are one of the brands that are good, however, other name brands are good, too, and have similar types of primers and paints.
In kitchens, bathrooms, and high-traffic areas, use a “latex enamel” paint which is more waterproof and can be cleaned easily
Allow plenty of drying time for a primer, and between each coat of paint. Getting in a hurry might end up with a poor finish, or require an additional coat of paint
If you’re trying to get by with just one coat of paint, don’t apply it to heavy. If a second coat is needed, you will have wasted paint
If you plan to use two coats of paint, don’t put the first coat on too thin. Two even coats will look better and last longer
Be sure you have plenty of ventilation. If you’re painting your home, plan to does it during warm weather so you can leave the windows open during, and for several days after, painting?

Interior and exterior wood finishing

Step by Step Guide To Painting.

Step 1 Wood Preparation:

First thing to do is to survey of all the surfaces. After doing this, you will be able to determine what you will need.
Surface marks
All the marks will have to be sanded off. Use 80 grit sandpaper. You will need to feather you’re sanding around the mark somewhat because if you sand in one spot, there will be a lighter difference on that spot Use 100 – 120 grit sandpaper.
Rough Areas
To describe rough, I refer to where a route or saw have not completely removed the wood it was suppose to remove. Also where the pieces meet or connect together such as corners and other joints.

Step 2 Priming:

There are several methods to applying primer. I usually just brush primer. I am not saying that it is the best way to do it, but that is the way I do it. I prefer to prime before the wood is installed. This makes the process of staining much faster. To do this type of application, layout the wood across two saw horses with a drop sheet below to keep the mess to a minimum. Next mix the primer thoroughly from bottom to top. Proceed by dipping the brush into the primer about one inch up the bristles. Wipe the brush off as you pull the can out of the primer. This should leave enough primer in the brush to start. Place the brush about five inches away from the end of the piece of wood and drag it toward the opposite end. When the brush begins to show signs of being almost empty stop and drag the brush back past where you started. Right past the end. Again reload the brush and start about five inches from where you had to turn back the previous stroke. Repeat until the piece is completed. Once the piece is completed, run the brush one end to the other without stopping. Complete the rest of the wood following these steps. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use. .

Install Wood with one coat of stain and one coat of sealer if possible

Step 3 Wood Preparation:

First thing you can do after the wood has been installed is being sure to inset all the nails with a nail punch. The nails should be inset by about 1/16 – 1/8 of an inch. Start to fill the nail holes with color matched putty. The putty can also be used to fill small joints that are not more the 1/16 of an inch in width. Joints that are larger will need to be profiled with wood cement or wood filler. Sand all the wood. Use 120 grit or finer. After all this has been completed, you can wipe each piece to remove any excess putty and dust with varsol or mineral spirits.

Step 4 First Finish Coat:
Apply the coat of your choice of finish whether it be latex / varethane / urathane. Be sure to spread the finish out as much as you can by striking back and forth. After three or four feet, drag your brush back over quickly where you had just finished having a continuous follows through stroke. Nothing looks worse then a lot of brush marks. Let dry. Different products take shorter or longer periods of time to dry. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

Step 5 Wood Preparation:

Now just a light sanding with 120 grit or finer. You just want to take off any roughness of the finish. You do not want to remove the finish! Wipe clean varsol or mineral spirits to remove the dust.

Step 6 Second Finish Coat:
Apply the second coat the same as the first coat. And you are finished. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

Interior Painting tips

Painting walls is a chore, and one that you will want to get right the first time around. Failure to paint the wall properly will cause the colors bleeding; running and you will have to add many coats of paint to cover these mistakes.

Place drop cloths on the area around where you are painting. Some paints say they wash up with soap and water, and the paint still is hard to remove.

Purchase paintbrushes for oil paints or latex, depending on which paint you are using. Same thing goes for the paint roller. It should have a medium nap. If preferred, you can use a paint sprayer and can purchase one at your local hardware center or home improvement center.

You can paint oil based paints over latex, but you can’t paint latex based paints over oil based paints without first prepping the walls. You can buy an etching solution or use a primer to seal in the oil paint. After you have primed the wall, you can begin painting.

First you will want to start with your ceilings. Feel free to paint over the edges because when you paint the walls, you’ll cut your corner in.
Next is your woodwork. Sand and prime before you paint.
Use a semi-gloss enamel paint on your trim and a flat finish or eggshell paint on your walls. Trim being doors, molding etc.

Now that you have finished the ceiling, you can paint the walls. Cut in first with a paintbrush. You do this by painting the corners and areas that the paint roller will not reach.

Roll out two coats on your walls, being sure you let the first coat dry thoroughly first. Be sure to have a window or fan for proper ventilation. If it’s cold outside, make sure the heat is on in your home to help dry the paint.

Be sure to use quality paint. If you have children, you will want to make sure the paint can be washed. Also make sure the paint has a warranty for at least 5 years or longer.

After painting, be sure to clean the brushes, roller and roller pans for your next project.


Interior Painting – Frequently asked questions

Can I paint directly over wallpaper?
No. Wallpaper can be painted over with the proper preparations. Be sure to remove any loose wallpaper, scuff/sand the surface, then apply interior oil-based primer.

Can I apply latex paint over oil based paint?
Yes. Be sure to prepare the surface properly before painting. Oil-based paints should be sanded to a flat finish before painting. After rinsing, apply Dutch Boy® oil-based primer and apply desired latex paint.

Can I apply paint directly over a semi-gloss paint?
No. Semi-gloss paint must be dulled to a flat finish by sanding*, allowing proper adhesion. Removing or disturbing old paint from interior or exterior surfaces by sanding, scraping, abrading or other means may produce dust, debris or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust, debris or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children and pregnant women. Structures built before 1978 should be tested by a licensed inspector prior to removing or disturbing old paint.

Can I use exterior paint on the inside of my house?
No. Exterior paints are formulated to be more flexible to withstand temperature and climate change.

How can I best prepare my walls before I paint?
Walls that have never been painted should have a recommended primer applied before painting. For previously painted walls, thoroughly wash them with a mild soap and water solution, then rinse with clean water. If your existing surface was painted previously with semi-gloss paint, the surface should be lightly sanded to a duller finish. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer or are stained then primer should be used.

How much paint do I need?
To achieve one-coat coverage, paint should be applied at a maximum of 400 square feet per gallon. Rough or textured surfaces may require more paint. On these areas allow for 125-300 square feet per gallon.

How do I prepare the surface?
As a general rule, all surfaces should be clean before painting. Remove any loose, peeling paint, and/or any other substrate that is on the surface*. Scrub all surfaces to remove all dirt, grease, oil, etc. Rinse surface well and allow to dry. Apply appropriate patching material to cracks, nail holes, or other surface imperfections, sand smooth, and remove sanding dust.

*If your existing surface is glossy, dull surface by sanding or use an abrasive cleaner. Remove any residue.

How do I take care of my freshly painted surface?
Freshly painted surfaces may be washed after 30 days. Avoid touching, wiping, or wetting any freshly painted surface for 30 days. After that time dirt and stains may be removed with a mild, non-abrasive cleaner and water. Do not place objects on windowsills and shelves until paint is thoroughly dry.

How long should I wait before applying a second coat of paint?
A second coat of latex paint may be applied 6 hours after the first coat. With oil-based paint, you should wait 24 hours between coats.

Should I paint the trim before or after I roll the walls?
The wall area around the doors and windows and along the ceiling should be cut in with a brush, this will prevent the wall from having an obvious and unsightly picture frame effect. Then, the main part of the wall can be painted with a roller, rolling into these areas.

Why do I need to use a primer?
Primers are specifically formulated to seal porous surfaces, block stains, as well as to insure the proper adhesion of the topcoat and produce the best possible coverage.

What is the proper order to follow when painting a room?
When painting a room, the ceiling should be painted first, followed by the walls, then the trim (including doors and windows) and finally the baseboards.

When should I apply?
Room and surface temperature should be between 50 and 85 degrees. Paint dries best between 65F and 85F. Allow at least 4 hours of drying time before recoating.

What is the proper rolling technique?
Fully load the roller with paint by dipping the entire cover deep into the tray of paint. Carry as much paint to the surface as possible. Make a letter “V” in a small 2 foot by 2 foot area with a generous roller load of paint. Fill in the “V”, spreading the paint evenly from left to right. Lightly smooth out with downward motions. Repeat “V” with a freshly loaded roller for every 2 x 2 foot area.

Interior Painting Ideas

Kitchens:
The kitchen is a room you will tend to spend a lot of time in, especially if you are the main chef in your household. Make sure you are comfortable with your chosen colour scheme as you will probably spend a significant amount of time surrounded by it. Bright, invigorating colour schemes can boost energy levels when you have a lot of cooking and cleaning to get through.
As kitchen walls tend to be dominated by cabinetry, benches and the floor, treat these elements as the starting point for your colour scheme.

The appearance of colours in the kitchen will depend on the properties and textures of each of the surfaces. Glossy surfaces, such as Melteca cabinetry, will reflect more light and look different to low sheen painted walls, so it is important to be careful when trying to match colours in different materials. Sometimes it is better to select a tone lighter or darker rather than trying to create an exact colour match.

Remember no matter what room you are decorating, artificial lighting can be used very successfully to compliment your colour scheme and it is worth reviewing your lighting plan prior to painting.

Living Rooms:
Today’s living rooms are often open spaces that link through to dining and kitchen areas. Knowing where to start and finish the colour scheme between each part of an open plan space can be very difficult. There are two techniques that you can use:
Paint a feature wall in an area between the two adjoining rooms/spaces to create a natural colour break.
Use a progression of colours, then paint a unifying colour throughout the spaces and accent with the other progressional colours.

Living rooms are the ideal place to create focal points or feature walls. Traditionally fireplaces acted as the focal point of most living rooms. If you don’t have a fireplace, select a focal point for your room and decorate around that. The focal point may be a feature wall, lounge suite or similar.

As living rooms are usually subjected to less wear and tear than family rooms, you can choose light and dark colours if desired.

Bedrooms:
When selecting colours for bedrooms it is important to choose colours that are conducive to sleeping. You are also likely to spend more time looking at the ceiling than you would in other rooms.

As a general rule you should avoid using very bright colours and save them for other parts of your home. Most light and pastel shades are ideal for bedrooms. Blue is a popular colour choice for bedrooms because of its soothing qualities. However, if you have trouble getting up in the morning, you may wish to add an invigorating accent to get you out of bed.

Bathrooms:
Bathrooms are one of the smallest rooms in the house and are generally cluttered with towel rails, basins and showers/baths. While this can make them a decorator’s nightmare, it also means you can afford to be a little more courageous with colour. If your original colour choice doesn’t work, you can always repaint a small bathroom quickly.

Avoid using too many colours if your bathroom feels small. Instead, paint a dado on the bottom third of each wall in your chosen colour and paint the remaining two-thirds in white.
Blues and greens are popular choices for bathrooms as they are tranquil and clean. Being cool colours, they can also make your small bathroom appear more spacious.

Painting Home Basics

Interior Painting

When painting a room, it¹s best to paint the ceiling first, followed by the walls, with the trim, cabinets, and doors painted last. Work from the top down. In order to keep a wet edge, only cut in one wall at a time before you begin painting with rollers.

Brushes are used to cut in around the ceiling, trim, windows, and doors before using a roller. They are also used to paint the trim, window frames and doors. There are a number of brush sizes available in both straight edge and angled sash. Your choice depends upon the size of the area you are painting and whether you prefer a straight edge or an angled sash. Rollers are a great time saver for painting larger flat surfaces such as ceilings and walls. Roller covers come in various nap lengths. Your choice depends upon whether the surface to be painted is smooth or if it is more textured. The more textured the surface, the longer the nap should be in order to allow the fibers to push the paint into the crevices on the surface.

High quality applicators will provide the best painting results. Cheap or low quality applicators can make the best quality paint look and perform poorly. Cheap roller covers do not spread the paint evenly on the surface, and often leave fuzz from the roller on the wall. Inexpensive brushes are harder to use because they do not spread the paint evenly and leave unsightly brush marks. High quality applicators can be cleaned and used again.

When painting, always work from the dry area into the adjoining wet paint area. Use the “N” technique when using a roller. Load the roller completely. Apply the paint in the form of an “N” in a 2¹ x 2¹ area. Fill in the center of the “N” with horizontal strokes from side to side. Lightly smooth the painted area with vertical strokes from top to bottom. Continue to use the “N” pattern with a freshly loaded roller directly below the first “N”, working until you reach the bottom of the wall.

Timesaving Tip: If you take a short break from painting, you can wrap your applicators tightly in a plastic bag or aluminum foil instead of washing them!

Always be sure to stir the paint thoroughly before using and do not thin the paint. If you are using more than one gallon of the same color, mix them together in order to insure color consistency. Paint when the room and surface temperature is 50ƒF or above. Avoid touching, wiping, or wetting a freshly painted surface for 30 days to allow the paint to completely cure. After 30 days, the painted surface can be cleaned with a mild, non-abrasive cleaner and water. Do not place or hang objects on the surface until the paint is thoroughly dry.

Remember: Its important to follow the directions on the back of the paint label. It contains the most important information you need for your painting project.

How to Rag Roll A Wall

Tools

Drop cloths, paint roller or pad, paint roller tray, level, straightedge, pencil and goggles

Materials

Rags, painter’s tape or tape and drape masking products, interior paint, oil-base glaze, tints or paint for coloring the glaze and mineral spirits (paint thinner).

1. The rags used for this decorating technique should be the same material and seamless. Fold the two sides of a 2- ft. long rag into the middle. Roll it loosely to create wrinkles. The roll can be any width under 1 foot. The width will determine the size of the striped pattern on the wall.

2. To protect the other surfaces of the room lay drop cloths on the floor and use mask and drape masking on the base board trim. Tape off adjacent walls to avoid rubbing the rag on unwanted areas.

3. Using a paint roller or pad, apply an even base coat on the already primed or painted wall. Allow it to dry completely.

4. Have a helper apply a glaze on a small area of the wall. It is important not to let the glaze dry before rolling it with a rag. Begin in a corner and work over a 2-foot wide top to bottom strip. Always work in vertical strips on the wall.

5. Immerse a rolled rag in thinner and squeeze out the excess thinner. Press the rag against the wall and carefully roll it down the wall with even pressure. The harder the pressure between the rag and wall, the more paint will be removed. When one section is finished, repeat the procedure on the adjacent area. Feather the edges of the strips together but do not overlap.

6. Finish the wall with the technique. Do not stop in the middle of a wall, but in a corner or edge of a door.

7. Apply another color glaze after the first coat has dried completely. Repeat steps 4 through 6 with another color glaze to create an interesting decorative look on the wall.

TIP

Install glass doors on your wood-burning fireplace to stop heated air in your home escaping up the chimney, and to keep cold air from being drawn down the chimney when it is not in use.

Painting Concrete Floors

Preparation is especially important when the surface to be painted is a concrete floor, such as in a laundry room or workshop. First you will want to repair any cracks or holes. You will next need to prepare the concrete with a muriatic acid solution. This process is called “etching.” It’s similar to etching glass— scraping off a bit of the top so that the paint has something to adhere to. Caution: muriatic acid is strong enough to burn skin and eyes. Before you begin the etching process, put on the proper safety gear. If you can’t ventilate the work area, wear a dual-cartridge respirator.

How to prepare and paint a concrete floor:

1. First, sweep and scrape off the dirt from the floor. Clean off any grease, oil, and other contaminants using a cleaning solution.

2. Rinse the floor well to remove all traces of the cleaning solution.

3. Mix the solution to etch the floor by adding 1 part muriatic acid to 3 parts water. Do it in this order—do NOT add the water to the acid.

4. Apply the solution, using 1 gallon per 100 square feet, and scrub the floor with a stiff-bristled brush. Leave the solution on the floor until it stops bubbling.

5. Rinse the floor thoroughly with clean water. Wipe it down with a damp sponge mop to eliminate puddles.

6. If the floor isn’t dry in four hours, repeat the rinsing procedure.

7. After the floor is completely dry vacuum it to remove any powder residue left by the muriatic acid solution.

8. You can now paint the floor with an alkyd or urethane latex floor and deck enamel. It is best to paint with a roller and long pole. First paint the edges then work from the wall farthest from the door back toward the door.