Paint Storage

Storing paint is one of those things that you’re never sure you’re doing right. Here are some easy tips to keep your paint fresh for the next time you need it.

1. If there isn’t enough paint left to justify storing the can, pour the excess paint into an old glass jar. You can see the color and amount left through the glass and it will be on hand for touch ups.

2. If you are storing your paint in the can, just mark the level of the paint on the outside of the can. Also, swipe a paintbrush over the top so you know the color.

3. To prevent a skin from forming on your paint while it’s in storage, put the can on a sheet of wax paper or aluminum foil and trace the size. Cut out the circle and place it directly on the surface of the paint in the can. This will protect the paint and keep it fresh. Storing the cans upside down will accomplish the same thing!

4. Protect yourself from paint splatters when you’re closing paint cans by covering the top with a cloth or some plastic wrap. Then tap all the way around the lid with a rubber mallet. This will seal the can tightly, but won’t dent it like a hammer could.

Interior Painting – Frequently asked questions

Can I paint directly over wallpaper?
No. Wallpaper can be painted over with the proper preparations. Be sure to remove any loose wallpaper, scuff/sand the surface, then apply interior oil-based primer.

Can I apply latex paint over oil based paint?
Yes. Be sure to prepare the surface properly before painting. Oil-based paints should be sanded to a flat finish before painting. After rinsing, apply Dutch Boy® oil-based primer and apply desired latex paint.

Can I apply paint directly over a semi-gloss paint?
No. Semi-gloss paint must be dulled to a flat finish by sanding*, allowing proper adhesion. Removing or disturbing old paint from interior or exterior surfaces by sanding, scraping, abrading or other means may produce dust, debris or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust, debris or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children and pregnant women. Structures built before 1978 should be tested by a licensed inspector prior to removing or disturbing old paint.

Can I use exterior paint on the inside of my house?
No. Exterior paints are formulated to be more flexible to withstand temperature and climate change.

How can I best prepare my walls before I paint?
Walls that have never been painted should have a recommended primer applied before painting. For previously painted walls, thoroughly wash them with a mild soap and water solution, then rinse with clean water. If your existing surface was painted previously with semi-gloss paint, the surface should be lightly sanded to a duller finish. If the walls have not been painted in five years or longer or are stained then primer should be used.

How much paint do I need?
To achieve one-coat coverage, paint should be applied at a maximum of 400 square feet per gallon. Rough or textured surfaces may require more paint. On these areas allow for 125-300 square feet per gallon.

How do I prepare the surface?
As a general rule, all surfaces should be clean before painting. Remove any loose, peeling paint, and/or any other substrate that is on the surface*. Scrub all surfaces to remove all dirt, grease, oil, etc. Rinse surface well and allow to dry. Apply appropriate patching material to cracks, nail holes, or other surface imperfections, sand smooth, and remove sanding dust.

*If your existing surface is glossy, dull surface by sanding or use an abrasive cleaner. Remove any residue.

How do I take care of my freshly painted surface?
Freshly painted surfaces may be washed after 30 days. Avoid touching, wiping, or wetting any freshly painted surface for 30 days. After that time dirt and stains may be removed with a mild, non-abrasive cleaner and water. Do not place objects on windowsills and shelves until paint is thoroughly dry.

How long should I wait before applying a second coat of paint?
A second coat of latex paint may be applied 6 hours after the first coat. With oil-based paint, you should wait 24 hours between coats.

Should I paint the trim before or after I roll the walls?
The wall area around the doors and windows and along the ceiling should be cut in with a brush, this will prevent the wall from having an obvious and unsightly picture frame effect. Then, the main part of the wall can be painted with a roller, rolling into these areas.

Why do I need to use a primer?
Primers are specifically formulated to seal porous surfaces, block stains, as well as to insure the proper adhesion of the topcoat and produce the best possible coverage.

What is the proper order to follow when painting a room?
When painting a room, the ceiling should be painted first, followed by the walls, then the trim (including doors and windows) and finally the baseboards.

When should I apply?
Room and surface temperature should be between 50 and 85 degrees. Paint dries best between 65F and 85F. Allow at least 4 hours of drying time before recoating.

What is the proper rolling technique?
Fully load the roller with paint by dipping the entire cover deep into the tray of paint. Carry as much paint to the surface as possible. Make a letter “V” in a small 2 foot by 2 foot area with a generous roller load of paint. Fill in the “V”, spreading the paint evenly from left to right. Lightly smooth out with downward motions. Repeat “V” with a freshly loaded roller for every 2 x 2 foot area.

Exterior Painting – Frequently asked questions

Can I paint over aluminum/vinyl siding?
Yes. Always make sure the surface is cleaned to remove any chalk or dirt. Never apply paint that is darker than the original painted surface on vinyl siding.
Do I need to wash my house before I paint?
Yes. Surfaces must be clean before painting. Thoroughly wash with a house cleaner and water solution, making sure to remove any and all mildew. Rinse and allow to dry.

How much paint do I need?
Be sure to utilize our Paint Gallon Calculator in the Project Planner section to help you determine how many cans to buy for your next project.

To achieve one-coat coverage, paint should be applied at a maximum of 400 square feet per gallon. Rough or textured surfaces may require more paint. On these areas allow for 25-30 square feet per gallon. Some bright colors may require multiple costs to achieve sufficient hide.

How do I apply the paint?
When using more than one gallon of the same product, mix the gallons together to insure color and sheen uniformity. Two coats of this paint will provide maximum protection.

How do I paint shingles & shakes?
Shingles offer natural breaking points, paint in a vertical direction.

How do I care for freshly painted surfaces?
We suggest not washing your newly painted surface for at least 30 days. After that time, dirt and stains may be removed using a mild, non-abrasive cleanser and water.

I have never painted the exterior of my home before….?
When painting the exterior of your home always start with a clean surface; paint one side of the house at a time, starting with the highest point; apply a full even coat to one side of the house at a time and always paint the trim last.

What conditions are best for painting my house?
Generally you should only paint when the surface is between 50F and 85F. High temperatures cause the water in the paint to evaporate too quickly, while low temperatures prevent latex from covering properly. Always avoid painting in direct sunlight, strong winds, or when rain is expected within 8 hours.

What tools do I need?
Depending on your project and the type of structure you are painting, paints may be applied with a nylon/polyester brush, a paint pad or spray unit.

What is the proper way to use spray equipment?
It is always safe to operate spray equipment with safety cautions. Use respiratory and eye protection. All spray units are different and it is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

Paint Steps

Don’t want to paint yourself into a corner? How about getting stuck up or down the steps after you paint them. Well I have a solution so you don’t get trapped!

1. For outdoor or basement steps mix a little bit of sand with your paint and you’ll have a gritty surface to step on and less chance of slipping.

2. When it comes to painting the steps there are a couple of ways you can do it. To ensure that you can use the steps while they’re drying, paint half of the step so that you can walk up or down on the other side. However, I prefer to have a nice smooth look on each step without a line in the center, so I like to paint every other step. This way you can skip steps while you’re going up and down. Let those dry and then go back and paint the other steps!

Painting tips & tricks

Rub petroleum jelly on the hinges and door knobs before you start to paint a door. If you get paint on them, they will wipe off easily.

To keep white paint from yellowing, add 2 drops of black paint to each Gallon of white.

When painting ceilings, cut a child’s rubber ball in half and put your paint brush in one of the halves to catch the drips.

An old pair of swimming goggles will protect your eyes from paint splatters and drips when painting ceilings.

When painting, protect your hands and face with moisturizer. Cleanup will be easier and the moisturizer will prevent paint from seeping into the pores.

To stop paint from dripping, punch a few holes in the rim of the paint can. When the brush is wiped against the edge, the paint flows back into the can. The lid covers the holes so the paint won’t dry out.

Before pouring paint from a can, cover the rim with masking tape. After pouring, remove the tape — the rim will be clean and the cover will fit tightly.

To remove lumps from paint: Cut a piece of screen to fit the inside of the paint can. Set it on top of the paint and let it float down to the bottom of the can. It will take all the lumps with it, trapping them at the bottom of the can.

When painting a room, dip a small card into the paint so that you have the exact colour with you and can match accessories in store.

When painting inside corners, trim the paint brush bristles to a V to save strokes and spread paint more easily.

When you poke a paint brush into corners or allow it to rest on the bottom of the paint can, the bristles curl and stray. To straighten natural bristles (not synthetics), try wrapping the brush in a couple of thicknesses of damp cloth and press gently with an iron. The steam and cloth binding do the job. Only light pressure is needed. Let the bristles cool before you unwrap the brush.

When painting old woodwork fill in the holes or cracks with a mixture of flour and some of the paint you are using. It hardens like cement and matches perfectly.

How to Paint the interior of your house

You can get professional results when painting your own interior walls. Read on for step by step instructions.

Remove all the hardware in the room. Take down all decorations and then scan the walls for any nails or pins, remove these. Take off the electrical outlet covers; you should turn off the circuit breakers before you do this. I soak the covers in a cleaning solution while I am painting to get two jobs done at once.

Wash the walls to remove any dirt and dust. Paint will not stick very well to dust so it is important to have them cleaned. Also vacuum the carpet.

Use painters tape to tape around anything that should not be painted. The tape with sheets of plastic attached is the best because they will completely cover the areas you don’t want to be painted. Put a drop clothe down over the entire carpet especially if you are painting the ceiling.

Fill in any holes in the wall with spackle. Put some spackle on a spackle knife and spread over the hole several times. It will dry to a white chalky color. Sand it so that none of the spackle is sticking out from the wall, but is only filling the hole. You may want to dab on primer using feathery strokes all around the hole.

Caulk any areas that need to be caulked. Keep your finger on the release button so that when you let go the flow will stop. Fill in any area that needs to be caulked and then take a small damp sponge and run it over the area to give it a clean look. You should wait at least twelve hours before you paint over any caulking to allow proper drying time.

It is a good idea to pour your paint into another container. When using a brush you will want to fill a paint pail only about an inch deep, so that it won’t spill. When using the rollers only fill the tray about a third full.

Use a brush to paint next to the floor boards, edges, ceiling and corners. Use a small chiseled brush. With a slow steady hand you should be able to paint these areas without getting paint on your floor boards or ceiling, though it may take some practice.

Now use the roller to get the wall. Don’t put too much paint on it or you will end up with areas of heavy paint deposits. Begin by making an “M” on the wall. Then run back over the same area several times. One roller full of paint should cover about four square feet of space. If you are changing the color of the paint you should give the room two coats for the most professional look. You will also want to do the same thing with the ceiling.

Now paint the floor boards and any trim. You may want to use an edger, which looks something like a big long spackle knife, to protect your newly painted wall.

Paint Textures and Finishes

Walls and ceilings can be textured in two ways; by applying texture directly to the surface before painting or by adding textured material to the paint before applying it. Most commonly, texturing is included in the drywall installation process. However, many new products have been developed for use by painters to create “faux” and other specialty effects.

Conventional walls and ceilings consist of panels of drywall (or “sheetrock) applied to studs, joists, or rafters with drywall nails or screws, or with adhesive. Joints between the panels are covered with a paper or fiberglass tape and coated with several layers of smooth, plaster like joint compound ( mud ).

There are two basic drywall finish styles: smooth and textured. Textured finishes range from light to medium and heavy, with both simple and complex textures. A sprayed drywall texture is the most popular application method today because it uses less labor and is less costly than hand-applied finishes. Fine to coarse grades of texture can be sprayed. The texture is made coarser by adding textured granules “of foam, for instance” to the drywall compound or paint.

If you are matching existing drywall and having it professionally installed, it’s important to let your service professional know the size and texture type so a more accurate estimate can be delivered. There are two types of smooth wall finish: smooth for wallpaper and smooth for paint (which leaves a slight pebble finish). Since wallpaper and many specialty faux finishes must be applied over smooth walls, it is often necessary to apply a “skim coat” or “float” drywall compound to fill in the “bumps” in previously textured walls to smooth them.

Textured finishes can also fall into “faux” finishes. Textured paints containing solid materials like silica can make walls resemble fabrics such as suede, for instance. New synthetic products developed to imitate old fashioned colored or white plasters can be applied smooth or hand-toweled into different patterns and styles. Textured products can create three dimensional effects by applying in layers to walls, fireplaces, ceilings and furniture to look and feel like real stone, crumbling masonry, peeling paint, fossils embedded in wall, etc. Some products and techniques can even be used outdoors.

“Popcorn” acoustic ceiling spray can often be removed and replaced with a new coat of texture to match the walls which is easier to keep clean and repaint. If the acoustic ceiling spray was applied before 1980, however, it should be tested for asbestos. If it contains asbestos, it would be far more economical to cover with a new layer of acoustic spray than to pay for costly asbestos removal.

Painting tips – Cool Tip

If you are using water based paints, on a hot day, spraying walls with water before you paint will cool them down and make the job faster and easier – you can even paint them when they are damp.

Rolling. Dip your roller in the paint tray and then roll it back and forth on the ridged part of the tray. This squeezes out excess paint and evenly spreads the paint all the way around the roller.

When painting, start with diagonal or zigzag strokes to get the paint on the surface.

Paint each surface in blocks of roughly 4 feet by 4 feet. Paint adjacent blocks before each previous block dries. This will blend the edges together and help prevent lap lines. When using glossier paints, paint smaller areas at a time. Glossier paints have a greater tendency to show lap lines.

Brushing tips. When painting molding and woodwork with a brush, you can mask off adjacent areas that you do not want to paint (for instance window panes). Use wide masking tape along the edge you want to maintain.

With a little practice you can learn to “cut” in your paint edge and avoid the hassle of masking things off. With a steady hand, guide the brush along the surface you are painting, allowing a few bristles to overlap the adjacent surface by about 1/16″. Strive for a smooth, even line. Paint with the grain of the wood. Use short strokes to coat the surface with paint, the go back over the area with longer, smoother strokes for an even, finished surface.

Paint a room! The order in which to paint a room is essentially top to bottom. That means start with the ceiling, then do the walls and finally paint all the woodwork. To paint a ceiling, begin by painting the edge of the ceiling along the walls with a brush. Paint out about 2″ to 3″ onto the ceiling. This will provide an area to overlap with the roller.

The easiest way to paint a ceiling is with a roller and an extension handle. This allows you to stand on the floor while you paint. If need be, you can use a stepladder, but it is much slower going and awkward. Start in the corner of the room and work your way across the narrowest dimension of the room with a band about 4 feet wide. Continue back and forth across the room until you are finished.

When the ceiling is dry, you can start painting the walls. Start by using a brush to paint corners, ceiling lines and areas adjacent to woodwork. Paint one entire wall or area at a time.

Use the roller and work your way across the room, from the ceiling down to the baseboards.

Use the roller and work your way across the room, from the ceiling down to the baseboards.

When the walls are dry, you can start to paint the woodwork. This will probably be the most time consuming part of the project and requires a fair amount of patience. Use a good sash brush. They are worth the extra cost. Paint with the grain of the wood. When painting windows, paint the sashes first. Then work your way down the window casing to the sill. Don’t paint moving parts, like sash cords and pulleys, or the sash channels.

On raised panel doors, paint the panels first. Then work your way from the top to the bottom of the door.

If you desire, flat panel doors can be painted with a roller for quick application.

Paint Disposal

If you´re like most people, you´ve probably got a can or two of old paint sitting around in the garage. Paint doesn´t last forever, so what do you do when you want to get rid of the old stuff? Most garbage services won´t pick up sealed paint cans because they could rupture and drip all over the neighborhood. Here´s a great solution:

If you´ve just got a little paint left, just leave the can open until the paint hardens. For more paint, pour it onto a big piece of cardboard and leave it outside until the solvents evaporate, then just throw the whole thing away. Of course, if you´ve got kids or pets, put your cardboard in a safe place, where they can´t get to it.

How to Paint a Room

Step by Step Guide To Paint a Room:

Step 1

Stir paint before using. If paint is old, have a local retailer check that it is still usable and spin the container. Pour paint into a coffee can for trim work and cutting in, or a roller tray for ceilings and walls. Paint ceiling, walls, and then trim. As you work, tape off areas with painting tape. Buy a spout for the paint can; it will keep the rim neat.

Step 2

Use top-quality nylon/polyester filament brushes for latex; natural China bristle for oil paint. A 1-in. Or 2 1/2-in. angular sash brush is good for details and cutting in; a 2 1/2-in. straight brush, for wide trim. Buy quality rollers—short nap for smooth surfaces and minimum 1/2–1in. nap for textured walls. Tape off the ceiling, then cut in all around it. Paint ceiling with a roller, using a sturdy extension handle.

Step 3

Let the ceiling paint dry thoroughly; then prepare to paint the walls. Choose a wall to begin with and cut in on this wall only. First cut in around the ceiling, floor, doorways, windows, and trim. A wheeled paint pad is easy to use, requires no taping, and better matches a roller’s texture. Still, a sash brush may be needed in places. If working alone, cut in edges for only as large an area as you can go over before cut-in area dries.

Step 4

Immediately after cutting in, roll that area with paint. Apply paint in an pattern to the upper part of the wall and roll it out. Repeat for the lower part, blending areas to avoid lap marks. Be sure to work with wet edges to avoid a “bordered” look. Depending on the color and type of paint, you may need one or two coats. Tinting the primer to half the formula of the finish paint can reduce the number of required coats.

Step 5

Finally, paint the trim. Tape it off or use a broad knife, paint shield, or other straightedge to keep edges neat. Clean applicators when they become overfull or messy and after use. Options for cleaning include rinsing, running the roller over a plastic roller scraper, or spinning with a painting-tool spinner held over a lined garbage can.

Paint Tip:

Paint Clean-up With Baby Wipes

Keep a box of baby wipes near whenever you paint. Wipes will not only remove spills from baseboards and wallpaper, but will also remove most dried paint (even from your own polished nails the next day!)

Interior wood finishing

Step 1 Wood Preparation:

First thing to do is to survey of all the surfaces. After doing this, you will be able to determine what you will need.
Surface marks
All the marks will have to be sanded off. Use 80 grit sandpaper. You will need to feather you’re sanding around the mark somewhat because if you sand in one spot, there will be a lighter difference on that spot Use 100 – 120 grit sandpaper.
Rough Areas
To describe rough, I refer to where a router or saw have not completely removed the wood it was suppose to remove. Also where the pieces meet or connect together such as corners and other joints.

Step 2 Staining:

There are several methods to applying stain. I usually just brush stain. I am not saying that it is the best way to do it, but that is the way I do it. I prefer to stain before the wood is installed. This makes the process of staining much faster. To do this type of application, layout the wood across two saw horses with a drop sheet below to keep the mess to a minimum. Next mix the stain thoroughly from bottom to top. Proceed by dipping the brush into the stain about one inch up the bristols. Wipe the brush off as you pull the can out of the stain. This should leave enough stain in the brush to start. Place the brush about five inches away from the end of the piece of wood and drag it toward the opposite end. When the brush begins to show signs of being almost empty stop and drag the brush back past where you started at. Right past the end. Again reload the brush and start about five inches from where you had to turn back the previous stroke. Repeat until the piece is completed. Once the piece is completed, run the brush one end to the other without stopping. Complete the rest of the wood following these steps. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

Step 3 Sealing:

Wait for about eight hours after staining the wood. The wood is dry to touch in order to handle it. Follow the same pattern of applying the stain when you apply the sealer but remember to ensure that the cover is even. This is accomplished by repeated hand motion back and forth. Just like staining, once the piece is completed, run the brush one end to the other without stopping. Complete the rest of the wood following these steps. Well, you have to wait two – four hours to make sure the sealer is dry. Sand all the wood. Use 120 grit or finer. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use. Install Wood with one coat of stain and one coat of sealer if possible.

Step 4 Wood Preparation:

First thing you can do after the wood has been installed is be sure to inset all the nails with a nail punch. The nails should be inset by about 1/16 – 1/8 of an inch. Start to fill the nail holes with color matched putty. The putty can also be used to fill small joints that are not more the 1/16 of an inch in width. Joints that are larger will need to be prefilled with wood cement or wood filler. Sand all the wood. Use 120 grit or finer. After all this has been completed, you can wipe each piece to remove any excess putty and dust with varsol or mineral spirits.

Step 5 First Finish Coat:

Apply the coat of your choice of finish whether it is latex / varethane / urethane. Be sure to spread the finish out as much as you can by striking back and forth. After three or four feet, drag your brush back over quickly where you had just finished to have a continuous follow through stroke. Nothing looks worse then a lot of brush marks. Let dry. Different products take shorter or longer periods of time to dry. Read the label. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

Step 6 Wood Preparation:

Now just a light sanding with 120 grit or finer. You just want to take off any roughness of the finish. You do not want to remove the finish! Wipe clean varsol or mineral spirits to remove the dust.

Step 7 Second Finish Coat:

Apply the second coat the same as the first coat. And you are finished. Be sure to always clean your brush after each step of use.

How to Paint the Exterior of a House

This may be the most important painting (and preparation) you do. Paint and preparation vary with the type of surface: wood, stucco, metal, masonry. Check with your paint store.

1. Repair or replace any damaged surfaces, whether wood, stucco, masonry or metal.

2. Wash off all surfaces. Use a high-pressure water sprayer (available to rent) to reduce labor. Make sure that surfaces dry thoroughly.

3. Use sandpaper or a paint scraper to remove any loose, cracked, chipping or blistered paint — down to raw surfaces if necessary. Use a small drop cloth as you go to catch loose bits of paint and debris. If you decide the exterior needs to be sandblasted, hire a licensed professional.

4. Patch all nail or screw holes, gouges and cracks.

5. Caulk such places as seams and corners, above door and window trim, and where trim meets siding – or where any material meets a different kind of material, such as trim over masonry. (Exception: Don’t use caulk where siding or shingles overlap or between shingles.) Use high-grade exterior caulk. Better caulks (such as silicone) actually bond to surfaces like glue and resist breaking down.

6. Use epoxy filler (the material used for car bodies) to repair serious problems in woodwork.

7. Cover dark stains – a wood knot, old paint, wood stain – with a stain-blocking primer. The same goes for mildewed areas; you can find primers and additives made especially for mildew.

8. Sand all rough or glossy surfaces; paint needs a slightly roughened surface to stick to. You can also use paint deglosser on all glossy surfaces. Remove sanding dust and debris.

9. Remove or cover all light fixtures, plumbing outlets, electrical covers and house numbers.

10. Remove all screens. You don’t want to get paint on them; it’s difficult (or impossible) to remove.

11. Use drop cloths to cover everything you don’t want to paint, such as plants, walkways, cars and your neighbors’ property.

12. Apply primer over all raw surfaces. Note that different surfaces – paint, metal, wood, stucco – require different primers.

13. Allow the primer to dry, then apply at least two coats of exterior paint. Let each coat dry between applications according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a brush on all woodwork and a paint roller or spray machine for everything else.

How To Applying Primer onto a Window

Window Frame

Using a stir stick, thoroughly stir the primer.

Load a 2-3″ wide brush by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the primer.

Remove excess primer from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket.

Starting at the top of the window frame, brush primer onto the inside frame area.

Reload the brush as necessary to maintain a wet edge, approximately every 4-6″.

Continue applying the primer until the inside frame is complete.

Using a water-dampened rag, wipe any excess primer that may have overlapped onto the outside trim.

Allow to dry.

Window Sash

Raise the inside sash and lower the outside sash.

Brush the primer onto the outside sash, beginning with the crossbar.

Brush the primer onto the inside sash, beginning with the crossbar.

Move the sashes back approximately 1″ from their closed positions.

Brush primer onto all areas of the sashes that were obstructed.

Brush primer onto the window casing and sills.

Allow to dry.

Window Trim

Starting at the top section of the window trim, prime the edge where the wall and the window trim meet.

Reload the brush as necessary to maintain a wet edge, approximately every 4-6″.

Brush the primer onto the face of the window trim, starting at the top of the window.

When one side has been completed, continue priming the remaining window trim following the same steps.

Allow to dry.

How To Applying Primer onto a Flat Door

Door (Brush – Cutting In)a

Using a stir stick, thoroughly stir the primer.

Load a 2-3″ wide brush by dipping 1/3 of the bristle length into the primer.

Remove excess primer from the brush by tapping the bristles against the inside of the bucket.

Using a brush, cut in around any hinges or other hardware on the flat area (face) and edges of the door.

Door (Rolling)

Pour the primer into a paint tray or a 5-gallon bucket.

Place appropriate nap roller onto a roller frame.

Dip roller cover completely into primer covering the entire nap area.

Remove excess primer from the roller cover by rolling onto the ribbed section of the paint tray or bucket grid.

Roll the inside and outside edges of the door.

Place the loaded roller cover onto the middle of the door and roll from edge to edge, top to bottom.

Reload as necessary.

Continue until the door is completely covered.

Door Frame

Starting at the top of the doorframe, working from the inside out, brush the primer onto the inside frame area.

Re-load the brush as necessary to maintain a wet edge, approximately every 4-6″.

Using a water-dampened rag, wipe any excess primer that may have overlapped onto the outside trim.

Continue applying the primer until the doorframe is complete.

Door Trim

Starting at the top section of the door trim, prime the edge where the wall and the door trim meet.

Reload the brush as necessary to maintain a wet edge, approximately every 4-6″.

Brush the primer onto face of the door trim, starting at the top.

Continue applying the primer until the trim is complete.