Painting like a pro

Ready to paint the interior of your home but have no clue as to what kind of preparation, paint or tools you need to do a quality job? Let’s shed a little light on the subject to help you achieve the attractive, long-lasting results you might expect could come only from a professional.

Let me begin by stressing the importance of good preparation. Resist the temptation to take short cuts in this step of a painting project to save time or effort, because proper prep work can make the difference between a good job and a great job and help prevent any paint failures.

When painting spread professional-quality canvas drop cloths to cover and protect the floor. Spilled paint doesn’t soak through canvas as it does a bed sheet or other lightweight cloth, and canvas is safer to walk on. Working on a plastic drop cloth can be like painting on roller skates.

1. First, you need to take down window coverings, and remove the switch-plates and hardware from doors (and cabinets, if you’ll be painting them).

2. Move all the furniture to the middle of the room and cover it with plastic.

3. Enamel paint on trim needs to be dulled using either sandpaper (be sure to wear a dust mask) or a liquid deglosser (be sure to follow directions on the label). I prefer sandpaper because it enables you to sand out old brush marks and roughness.

4. If there is oil-based enamel on the trim or cabinets, you’ll need to apply a prime coat. I prefer a slower drying oil based primer with good hiding ability (you’ll need paint thinner to clean up).

5. Next, fill cracks with a paintable latex caulk, fill nicks and dings with spackle or bond and spot prime these areas. Wall prep usually isn’t as time consuming.

6. Clean any grease, wax or dirt with Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) or another degreaser, then rinse.

7. Walls which were previously painted with oil-based enamel (most likely in older kitchens, bathrooms or laundry rooms) should be primed with an oil based primer.

8. Smoke stains should be primed with a stain blocking primer.

9. Fill nail holes with spackle, applied with your fingertip instead of a knife so you don’t fill in any wall texture. I will assume you will be painting with a brush and roller, and not need to do a lot of masking, as is the case when applying paint with a sprayer.

10. Cover baseboards with two inch masking tape.

11. Now that you’ve got your home all prepped and ready to put some fresh color on your walls, you need to pick up the paint and tools required to do a quality job. With all the paint manufacturers and dealers out there offering so many different grades of products, it’s no wonder many consumers have no idea which products to buy. Don’t buy the cheapest stuff you can get your hands on because it probably won’t give you the coverage or durability you need. But you don’t necessarily need the most expensive, either. Knowing what you’re looking for will make it much easier.

Finishes and Gloss

The vast majority of finishes used today are water-based latex. Oil based paints are rarely used for finishes anymore because the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has put a limit on the amount of volatile chemicals that can be used.

The first thing to understand is that paints have different gloss ratings (or sheens), from flat to lo-sheen, eggshell, semi-gloss and finally, gloss. Flat has little or no sheen and is used primarily for walls and ceilings. The remaining is considered enamels and can range from a five to 85 percent sheen rating – the higher the rating, the higher the shine. These are used for trim, cabinets and walls in kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms. Many homeowners use enamels on all their walls because they are more durable and easier to clean, but I recommend lo-sheen because it is more attractive than shinier enamels.

How Much Paint to Buy?

You’ll need to measure the square footage of your walls and ceilings. Most paints will cover from 300 to 400 square feet per gallon. Double that, because I recommend applying two coats on all surfaces to insure good coverage and maximum durability.

Tools

1. At least one good two and one-half- to three-inch paint brush (Purdy is a good brand and if you keep it clean it should last forever)

2. A nine-inch roller frame

3. A nine-inch screen

4. A nine-inch roller covers with a one-half to one-inch nap “lamb’s wool is best”

5. A two-gallon bucket

6. A five-gallon bucket

7. A four-to eight-foot rolling pole (which could double as a handle for a broom or other implement) to save time and your back

8. You might also consider foam brushes and rollers (for a smoother finish on trim and cabinets)

Make just one final appraisal of your prep work to make sure it is complete. (Remember, no short cuts!) Read the labels on the paint cans for any special instructions and familiarize yourself with what you are using. Now you should be ready to go!

1. Put your nine-inch screen in your five-gallon bucket (eliminating any need for a roller tray) and pour three to four gallons of paint in the bucket.

2. Attach your rolling pole to the roller frame, slide on the roller cover and dunk it into the bucket.

3. Roll only three feet at a time to spread the paint evenly over the wall, using the roller to get as close to the corners as possible.

4. After rolling, pour some paint into the two-gallon bucket, dip your new brush and start “cutting in” around the trim and corners.

5. Make sure the paint is completely dry before applying the second coat.

Trim

For trim, make sure the surface is clean before painting, some enamels brush better than others, so ask the paint store which product has the best brush ability and is user friendly. A product called Floe-tol can also be added to enamels to help them flow better and eliminate brush marks, or you can add a few splashes of water (just don’t overdo it). You can also try the foam brush or roller, experimenting to see what is most comfortable and effective for you.

Painting Laminated Plastic Countertops

One of the main concerns with using melamine paint on your countertops is the curing period between coats. The following is the proper method to paint counters.

1. Wash the entire area using TSP (tri sodium phosphate) and a Scotch Brite type abrasive scrub pad.

2. Rinse well with clear water.

3. Allow it to dry.

4. Mask all areas to be protected such as sinks, faucets, the backsplash, etc.

5. Roll on first coat using a Wizz roller (foam type) and allow it to cure for a full 24 hours.

6. Roll on a second coat and allow another full 24 hours.

7. Never place hot pots/plates or do any cutting on the painted surface.

Note: Always remember this is still paint, so use your countertop with TLC.

Painting Ideas For Toddler Rooms

When your baby first arrived, your family was overjoyed of having a new baby in the house. Perhaps you’ve made the necessary preparations for the baby’s nursery. You’ve created a relaxing room that is suited for your little angel. However, you may have forgotten that your baby will soon become a toddler. Having a nursery room that is open to changes in decoration is the best that you can have these days.

You don’t have to create a new room for your toddler. In fact, the baby’s nursery can still be used but only with little changes. Painting your toddler’s rooms is one way to change the atmosphere and feel of the room.

If you want to start your painting project for your toddler, then you will need painting ideas to guide you in your project. Read this helpful article and you will surely get good painting ideas for your toddler’s room.

Thinking ahead is the best possible solution so that the room can meet your kid’s needs as he or she grows older. The structural basics like electrics, lighting, and closets should be just right because as your child grows, so will storage requirements.

If your cute baby is now a toddler, make sure that the room is designed for practicality and fun. The painting of the room should be simple and very easy to maintain. The toddler’s room is hard to keep clean because your child will naturally write on the walls or smudge the walls by accident. Either way, the walls of the bedroom should still be kept clean. How will you do this?

Consider these painting ideas for toddler rooms:

Choose a color that your toddler loves. It should go along with his gender and his interests. Bright colors easily attract toddlers and some kiddies also like bold colors. You can ask your toddler to take part in the selection process. When you visit the paint dealer, why not take your child and let him/her choose the color of the paint that you plan to purchase.

Paint sheens should also be considered when painting for toddler rooms. Make sure that you buy durable and washable paint sheens. One reason why many people prefer painting a room because re-applying wallpaper is a tough job, and expensive too. If you settle with paint, you can always re-paint it when the need arises.

If your toddler loves well-known cartoon characters, then you can incorporate that in your painting. Choose a color that will go along with their favorite character. Painted wall borders can add a whimsical touch to your toddler’s room.

Some toddlers love to have rooms like that of space ships and rockets. You can paint the room to look like a spaceship by carefully choosing the colors. With a little imagination and creativity, you can turn the room into an awesome and interesting place for your toddler.

If your toddler shares a room with an older brother or sister, you can have a neutral wall. Your toddler’s side should be painted the way that is suited for him/her. Even if the room is shared, your toddler can still enjoy his little corner

Painting is not a very difficult task. By carefully looking at these great painting ideas, your toddler’s room is worth remembering. Get your child involved and you will both like the results.

Painting Ideas For Interior Walls

Many people want to make their home to look a little classier and more comfortable to live in. This is why many Americans today spend a lot of money on interior decorations and on comfortable chairs, such as recliners and extra soft mattresses. However, what many people don’t know is that comfort and coziness also depends on the walls itself.

Try to imagine living in a home with all walls painted in black or with walls with no paint at all. It will seem dull and unwelcoming. You have to consider that the coziness and the warmth in homes will also depend on the wall paint. With the right mixture of colors, you will see that your home will even be more inviting and cozier to live in than ever before.

Firstly, painting interior walls isn’t just about arming yourself with a roller and the paint you like. It is also important to know that there are painting methods and techniques that you can use in interior wall painting to make your home more welcoming to look at. The proper painting techniques will also enhance the lighting and the look of your furniture too.

So, here are some of the techniques that you can use when you are painting your home’s interior walls:

Firstly, you have to choose the proper color for every room of your home. In the kitchen, you should consider choosing a color that will match the finish of your cabinets and the table. It is important that you should also choose a bright color for the kitchen. It will improve your mood and it will also keep you smiling as you prepare you and your family’s meals.

You should also choose a different color scheme for every room of your home in order for people to distinguish which room is which. Using different color schemes in every room will also make your home unique and better to look at. Besides, a home with a single color scheme, no matter how bright or happy the color scheme is, it will still be very dull to have a single color scheme.

In the bathroom, you can consider choosing a clean looking color, such as blue or green. These colors can give the bathroom a look of more space and a clean feeling. For bedrooms, you can use sleep inducing colors, such as light blue.

Sponging is also a great technique you can use in painting to enhance the color scheme. For example, if you used the color blue in a room as a base color, you can consider letting it dry thoroughly and use a lighter shade of blue for the sponging technique. You will see that the effect will be quite attractive. Although sponging can take a long time, the effect it offers is worth the effort.

Another interior wall painting technique is by making your walls look like they are made of suede or plaster. With this technique, you will see that it will make the room stand out. It may seem difficult to do, but it only requires a few easy steps to get the desired effect.

Now that you know how to paint your interior walls and what proper colors to choose, it will definitely make your home stand out from the rest. So, stop living in a dull home by repainting your interior walls to make your home look a lot cozier and more welcoming than before.

Painting Ideas For A Girl’s Room

Green and pink are probably the two hottest paint colors for every girl’s room these days. These interior paint colors create a fresher look for your girl’s room.

If you want a punchy pair of paint color, then go with green and pink. This is a surefire color trend nowadays. Every girl wants their room to be unique and expressive, and this might be the right time to start painting their room.

Having second thoughts? Well, with the help of these painting ideas for a girl’s room, you will encounter less or even no problems at all.

1. If you want to make a girl’s room warmer, paint the walls with pink. But if you want to the room to be cooler, the walls should be painted with green.

2. Achieve balance between these two colors by using two thirds of the pink and one third of the green, or the other way around.

3. If you want to get greater interest, mix the shades of green and pink.

4. The intensity of the paint colors can also affect the room’s dramatic effect by keeping the colors far from each other or close enough.

5. Paint the room with flower power. Use semi-gloss paint using the shades of pink. Don’t forget to apply a base coat first and leave it to dry. Afterwards you can apply the pink colored paint on top. By using flower stamps, press it on the wall firmly. The flower stamps should be at least five to eight inches apart.

6. If your girl wants her room decorated with stripes, then you can paint the room in stripes. Use satin paints with the shades of green. A base coat should be applied and wait until it dries. Use a roller (marble-look cover) to paint the walls so that mottled surfaces are created. Start behind the room’s door and measure/mark the stripes. You can freely decide how the stripes are spaced. Use a liner brush to paint the stripes. Start painting the stripe from the top to the bottom.

7. You can also create a psychedelic swirl by combining a dark pink paint color over a base coat of light pink. The pattern that can be obtained from this kind of project is fresh and does not overwhelm space. After the base coat dries, use the crafts knife to cut the small notches that measures about three millimeters. After doing this, use a neutral glazing medium and apply the mixture to the room’s wall with the use of roller covered in foam. While it’s wet, comb the curved strokes using a squeegee. The swirled design can be achieved by combing the strokes in two different directions. Then after the whole wall is done, leave it to dry.

8. A polka dot design is also great for a girl’s room. You can use different shades of green for this project. You will need a stamp graphic pattern to add a lively tone to the plain wash wall. If your girl’s room has too much sunlight coming in, use the paint with celery-green shade. Use semi-gloss paints for this project and for the polka dots, use white-colored paint. Glaze is applied after the base coat dries in round motion. After the glaze dries, you can now stamp the polka dots on the wall.

Your girl will love spending lots of her time inside her room after the painting is done nicely.

Painting Ideas For A Boy’s Bedroom

Teens are very much different from the regular little kids in school. Their tastes greatly vary and so when you decide to paint your teen boy’s bedroom, you should have extraordinary painting ideas just to capture their attention.

The internet offers a wide array of painting ideas that you can see for yourself. These great painting ideas can help you a lot especially if you don’t know where to start. Not all people are artistic enough but admit it, anyone can paint; and so can you.
Don’t delay this very simple task and start painting your teen’s bedroom. To aid you in your special painting project, don’t forget these cool painting ideas specially conceptualized for your teen boy’s bedroom.

1. Vibrant colors attract teenagers easily. You can paint your boy’s bedroom with blue or purple shades. The painting on the walls cannot stand alone so you would also need to provide accents like lighter shades of furniture.

2. Painting your teen’s room with only plain colored paint can sometimes be boring for your boy; so it would be best to have a mural painting on their wall. You can choose a certain theme that your teen boy is interested with and paint it on the wall. Since he’s already old enough, you can even let him join in the painting process. You will surely have a good time.

2. For your painting mural, you can have a motor sports theme, surf theme, and any other appropriate theme that your boy likes.

4. Do a solid color theme for your boy’s room. Aside from the solid color, you can also use other colors, however, be sure to use them in little amounts. If you follow this tip, your boy’s room can have an excellent overall design.

5. If your teenager is interested in cowboys, you can paint his room with any warm red shade. All other room accessories should coordinate with the cowboys theme.

6. If your boy loves race cars, you can paint racing stripes or even checkered flags on the windows and walls of the bedroom.

7. Chalkboard paints are still recommended for a teen boy’s room especially if your teen is an artist by nature. He can express himself freely inside his bedroom because the entire wall will serve as his chalkboard.

8. If your teen likes to stick things on the wall, then you’d better prepare your pockets for the expensive magnetic paint. By applying several coats of magnetic paint, the walls of the bedroom can hold anything that’s magnetic.

9. As mentioned a bit earlier, the theme can also be about sports like basketball, swimming, football, and any other sport that your boy loves playing. All you have to do is to choose the best paint color that will suit the theme. After choosing the paint’s color, you can choose the room’s accessories that will complement the color of the bedroom wall.

10. Get your boy involved in the work. He knows what he likes so let him do the choosing. Your task is just to guide him and help him. During one weekend, the family can all help together to paint the bedroom. Family bonding is one way to bring the family closer together.

Your search for the best painting ideas for your boy’s bedroom is over. Now, you can have a lot of choices. Make a good decision for your boy’s room.

Painting Ceiling and Walls

PainterClick.com Offer tips for paint ceiling and walls as efficiently as possible without making a mess.

Surface Preparation
The first thing I do when painting a room spread professional-quality canvas drop cloths to cover and protect the floor. Spilled paint doesn’t soak through canvas as it does a bed sheet or other lightweight cloth, and canvas is safer to walk on. Working on a plastic drop cloth can be like painting on roller skates.
The plaster walls in the room needed some fairly extensive patching work. In this type of situation, I start by fixing all the questionable areas, taking care not to create a lot of dust that might get into fresh paint. Next,
I caulk all gaps between the trim (baseboard, window and door casing) and the walls with a high-quality paintable caulk. I smooth the caulk with a damp rag. Caulking always makes the finished paint job look better.
I also make sure that the room I’m painting has adequate lighting. Even if there is a lot of natural light,
I always have halogen work lights and clip-on parabolic lights handy.
The next step is prepping and priming the trim. Painting trim is a different kettle of fish, but I make sure that the trim paint overlaps the wall about 1/8 in. When the trim is primed, I begin work on the walls and ceiling, letting the finish coat on the trim covers any stray paint from the walls.

Priming
The ceiling and walls in the room had water stains from an old roof leak that had been fixed; also, the former owners of the house were heavy smokers, which left the ceiling and walls stained. So I decided to cover everything with a stain blocking primer. “BULLS EYE”.
The two steps to painting a large area are cutting in and rolling. Cutting in is brushing paint onto areas the roller won’t reach.
Painters naturally start at the top and work down; I stand on a ladder and paint everything I won’t be able reach comfortably from the floor. For cutting in, I never work out of the paint can but instead use a cut bucket. You can buy one or make one. I cut in with a 3-in. brush to give me a 3-in. band to roll into. Because the ceiling and walls are being painted with the same primer, I cut in the corners without being too careful, using the flat part of the brush on both sides of the corner.
Where the primer meets the prepped trim, I paint up to the edge of the trim using the narrow side of the brush, overlapping the wall primer onto the trim slightly but not being overly accurate with my line at this point. Overlapping coats at the edges of the trim creates a less stark line between the trim paint and the wall paint. When I’ve finished cutting in the upper parts of the room from the ladder, I work from the floor cutting in the rest.

Rolling equipment
Once the entire room is cut in, it’s on to the rolling. The first thing I need is a roller frame, which is the handle and holder for the roller pad. Roller frames come in an amazing array of widths and shapes, but I usually stick with the standard 9-in. model. I avoid cheap roller frames because they don’t hold up well.
The next-most-important tool for painting ceiling and walls is a telescoping extension pole. These poles come in various sizes, but for most rooms with flat ceilings, a 4-ft. pole that telescopes to 8 ft. or so works great.
I avoid screw-together extension poles; they’re a lot of trouble.
The extension pole has a broom-handle thread on one end that screws into the roller frame. This tool keeps me from running up and down a stepladder to paint ceilings. If I paint a ceiling without an extension pole,
I end up working directly under the roller, getting spattered as I paint.
Next, I need the correct roller pad for the job and paint I’m applying. For smooth surfaces, a roller pad with a short nap (1/4-in. to 1/2 in.) is fine. But if you are covering heavy stucco, you may need as much as a
1-1/2-in. nap. For the oil-based primer that I’m using for the job in the photos, I chose an inexpensive 3/8-in. nap roller pad good for any kind of paint.

Working out of a 5-gal. Pail
The two most common ways to get paint onto the roller are a standard paint pan, which I use for the finish coats, or a 5-gal. Bucket with a roller ramp hung on the rim. For the primer on this project, I needed about
2-1/2 gal. Of paint, so I poured that amount into the pail inserted the roller ramp and got to work.
The 5-gal. Bucket should be no more than half full, leaving most of the ramp exposed. I dip the roller pad slightly into the paint — about one-quarter of the way — and draw it up onto the ramp. Dipping the roller into the paint any deeper can make it drip all over the place.
I dip the pad several times while rolling it up and down the ramp until the pad is completely saturated.
Most ramps are made of expanded metal that distributes the paint evenly on the roller pad while allowing excess paint to drain back into the pail. When the roller pad is fully loaded, I place it near the top of the ramp and give it a quick downward push off the roller ramp to spin off any excess paint.

Ready to roll
I start rolling in one corner of the ceiling, working down the short side of the room first. I roll the paint in 3-ft. squares with each square overlapping the next slightly. (A 3-ft. by 3-ft. area is about what a properly loaded roller ought to cover.) For each square, I roll the paint on from side to side in compacted W or M formations: down straight, back up on a slight diagonal, then straight down again, overlapping each down stroke with the one before. But remember you’re painting, not spelling. Overlapping gives you even coverage and keeps you from missing any spots. Where the squares overlap my cut-in band, I try to keep the roller about 1 in. from the corner.
Once the ceiling is finished, I start on the walls. I first work my way along the top of each wall in similar
3-ft. squares. The small sections above windows and doors are done in shorter, smaller strokes.

Ropes, drips and runs
The biggest concern when rolling paint is that excess paint tends to build up on the outside edges of the roller pad and frame. Paint buildup leaves behind ropes, or heavy lines of paint, in the wake of the roller.
Going back over a section with the roller smoothes out any ropes or areas with too much paint from working with an overloaded pad. But it helps to get rid of the excess paint on the roller that is causing the ropes in the first place. When ropes begin to appear, I tilt the frame and pad slightly at an angle to the wall with just the end touching and roll it for a couple of inches. I repeat the process with the other side of the roller and then work the drips that have squeezed out into the area I’m painting. When I’m finished with a section, the paint should be a consistent thickness over the entire area.

Mix all your cans of finish paint for consistent color
Because I use a fast-drying primer, I can apply the finish coats almost immediately. For the room,
I gave the ceiling one coat of white finish paint, and the walls two coats.
For the finish coat, I roll the ceiling first so that any drips or spatter that I get on the walls will be covered with their finish coat. When cutting in the ceiling, I again overlap the finish paint slightly onto the walls.
It’s still not necessary to be extremely tidy; I just try not to leave any globs of paint on the walls.
Next is the final coat on the walls, and I don’t want to be short on paint. I also want a little paint left over in case I need to touch up or repair a wall in the future. But custom-mixed colors usually vary from can to can, which can be obvious if I have to buy an extra quart to finish a job.
The trick is to overbuy and then mix all the cans of paint together thoroughly before I start. Most paints cover around 400-sq. ft. of flat surface per 3.78 litre.
I’ve seen painters pour half of a gallon can into a container and then pour half of a second can into the first. They continue this process around until all the cans have been blended completely. Mixing paint in this manner is known as boxing, but I find it easier just to pour all the paint into a 5-gal. Bucket.

Be finicky on the final cut in
The time has finally arrived to take the extra effort to cut in neatly. I start at the ceiling line of one wall and cut it in as neatly as possible. It’s still okay if it’s not absolutely perfect; I’ll fine-tune the line on the final coat.
Again, I create the first horizontal line with a high quality 3-in. brush turned on edge. I then complete the band using the full 3-in. width. I also overlap onto the trim slightly, but I don’t go crazy. For the project featured here, the trim was to be white, which wouldn’t cover the teal wall paint well.

A paint pan minimizes ropes
Instead of working out of a 5-gal. Bucket, I use a roller pan for the finish coats on both the ceiling and walls. Loading the roller out of a paint pan gives me better control over ropes and drips. When filling a roller pan, I pour in just enough paint to fill the deep end of the pan. And again, I don’t let the entire roller submerge in the paint. When the roller is saturated, I give it a light twirl to spin off excess paint from the ends.
Roll the walls the same way I did on the primer coat, working in 3-ft. squares and making sure the paint is applied evenly. When the first coat is dry, I go over the walls with light sandpaper using a work light to illuminate lumps or debris that might need to be smoothed out.
Cutting in the second coat gives me the chance to fine-tune the line between the ceiling and walls. Working in an older home, I often find myself having to invent a straight line because the corners are uneven. I take my time and fill in any small gaps left from the first coat.
Don’t use masking tape to create a straight corner line, which can make an even bigger mess than you’re trying to prevent. Instead, take your time and trust yourself with the brush. You can’t do any damage that can’t be easily fixed with either wall or ceiling paint.
The roller pad I used for the first coat still had plenty of life in it after one coat, so I didn’t want to throw it out. But I couldn’t let it sit out overnight either, so I stuck it in the fringe. I just double-wrapped the roller pad {still on the frame} in old plastic grocery bags and set it next to the eggs and milk. Paint dries slowly at refrigerator temperatures. The next day, I let the roller come to room temperature and was ready to roll the next coat.
When I’m finished with the final coat, I use the curved part of a painter’s 5-in-1 tool to scrape most of the residual paint out of the roller, and then I throw the roller pad away.
There are gadgets on the market that are supposed to help with cleaning rollers. But cleaning a roller pad can shorten its limited life span and can even destroy a cheaper pad that has a cardboard core.
Throwing pads away may not be frugal, but besides being a pain, cleaning roller pads is inefficient. Every time I try cleaning a pad, there always seems to be a bit of residual paint that spoils whatever I try to paint next.
To store leftover paint, I secure the lid and store the can upside down. The next time I need it, the tint that settles to the bottom naturally mixes back into the paint.

How To Painting a Sky

Once the base coat dries, apply the blue sky paint with a brush or roller. Let it dry.

Then working at a 45-degree angle, slap white paint over the surface using short, random strokes from a 4-inch-wide decorator brush. Pull the paint out until it’s thin in some areas, and overlay it in others so that you create an uneven color overall. If you wish, imitate the color gradation found in the sky by leaving the tops of walls and the centers of ceilings more blue.

Work the paint so that it has a mottled effect. This mottling begins to suggest where you should place the clouds.

Use a dry 2-inch-wide decorator brush tipped with the white paint to establish cloud shapes in the light sections. Use random, flowing strokes to smooth and blend the two colors. Be loose, and don’t think of cloud shapes as such; your goal is to create billowy shapes with a mottled effect. Follow up by adding more blue with a brush wherever you feel it’s needed to create the right balance. Let the surface dry.

The final finish. To complete the finish, mix 8 parts water with 1 part white paint to make a thin wash. Brush this wash over the entire surface, and let it dry. It has a softening effect that breaks up the blue and pulls everything together.

Painting a door by putting it flat on a pair of sawhorses is the best way to prevent drips and runs.

Painting a Door

Painting a door by putting it flat on a pair of sawhorses is the best way to prevent drips and runs. You can paint in a garage or other area that will keep odors from lingering inside your house. It’s also the fastest way – by removing all the hardware, you won’t have to paint around any obstacles. Now is the time to change styles or replace worn hardware. Just be sure to take your old hardware with you when you shop for replacements to make sure you get the correct sizes.


1. Remove the door by driving the lower hinge pin out with a screwdriver and hammer. Have a helper hold the door in place as you drive out the pin.


2. Place the door flat on sawhorses to paint it. On paneled doors, paint in the following order: 1) recessed panels, 2) horizontal rails, and 3) vertical stiles. That way, you won’t leave any unnecessary brush marks.


3. Let the door dry completely. If a second coat of paint is needed, sand the door lightly and then wipe it with a tack cloth before repainting.


4. Seal the unpainted bottom edge of the door with clear wood sealer to prevent moisture from entering the wood. Any water will cause the wood to warp and swell, resulting in a door that won’t close properly.

Store and Dispose of Paint and Chemicals

Lots of do-it-yourself projects involve different paints and solvents. These can be very dangerous if you don’t know how to store or dispose of them.

1. If you’re going to store a chemical that you know is toxic, keep it in its original container, or a container that is clearly labeled with the product name and a toxic sign. Seal it tightly and keep it out of the reach of curious children and pets.

2. If you’re done with some latex paint, you need to allow it to harden. To speed up the process, pour some kitty litter into it. Once the paint is hardened, you can throw it out in the regular garbage.

3. If you’re using oil based paint, it can never be put with garbage. Regulations governing disposal vary from state to state, so call your local hazardous waste disposal center for advice.

4. Paint thinner doesn’t have to be thrown away, it can be re-used (Make sure you only use paint thinner outside – the fumes are toxic). Put it in a clearly labeled glass or metal container, and seal it tightly. Paint particles will settle out, then you can pour off the clear liquid to be re-used. Just remember, you use paint thinner for oil based paints so don’t throw the paint particles in the garbage.