Building Codes & Permits

Building permits are required for any remodeling project that involves a change or addition to your home’s structure or mechanical systems. Building permits are issued to ensure your remodeling project meets local building codes, which establish material standards, structural requirements, and installation guidelines for your project. In short, they ensure that your (or your contractor’s) work is done properly.

Building permits are required by law, and getting caught without them can result in fines from the city and possible trouble with your insurance company Also, work done without permits can cause problems if you try to sell your house.

Most local building codes follow the national codes, such as the National Electrical Code, hut are adapted to meet the demands of local conditions and legislation. Keep in mind that local codes always supersede national codes. Always check with your local building department before finalizing your plans.

Before issuing permits, your local building department will require plans and cost estimates for your project. After your plans have been approved, you must pay permit fees, which are based on the cost of the project. You’ll also learn what inspections are required and when you should call for inspections.

Once issued, a building permit typically is good for 180 days. You can apply for an extension by submitting a written request showing justifiable cause for the delay.

TIPS

Here are some tips to help you prepare for the permit process:

• To obtain a building permit, you must fill out a form from your local building department that includes a description of the project; your home’s address, legal description, and occupancy; and an estimate of the project cost.

• The building department may require two to four sets of construction documents or drawings of your project-including floor and elevation plans-to be submitted for inspection and approval.

• A building inspector will examine all construction plans and stamp or send written notification of approval and acceptance.

• One set of approved documents is kept by the building official, one set is sent to the applicant, and one set is displayed at the site until the project is completed.

• Some permits are granted by phase of construction. After the work for one phase is completed and inspected, a permit for the next phase is issued. However building officials will not guarantee issuance of subsequent permits.

• All work is inspected by a building official to ensure compliance with codes and permits.

• Your project is complete only after the local building inspector makes a final inspection and gives approval of your site.

Building Up Damaged Concrete Surfaces

Building Up Damaged Concrete Surfaces

Painting tips & tricks

Clean the area with T.S.P General Household Cleaner and rinse well. While still damp from washing apply a concrete adhesive (Weldbond) to the entire area. Mix the Bonded Topping mix to a thicker consistency (like muffin mix) and trowel over the prepared area. Texture the surface with a broom if that look is desired. Allow to cure for 24 hours, and then follow with the brightening concrete procedure. Leave for one week and seal with a solvent- based concrete sealer.

For severely damaged surfaces I would suggest hiring a Concrete Restoration service to place a new layer of concrete minimum of 1 ½” over the existing surface. If concrete is sinking in some areas I recommend using a Slab Jacking service to lift and stabilize the slab.


Benefits Of Latex Paints

The benefits of latex paints are:

• No or low odor.
• Quick drying.
• Easy application.
• Easy clean up.

Some interior latex paints also are splatter resistant.

Other pluses: Latex paints are more durable and have increased resistance to blistering and bubbling.


BAGGING

This technique creates a strong, textured look, Prepare the surface with a coat of matte oil- based paint, and working in sections of approximately 2 sq yds (2 sq m), paint on the tinted oil glaze. Place a rolled-up cloth in a plastic bag and run the bag over the surface in a pattern, such as overlapping circles. Wipe off any excess glaze from the bag. When the glaze is dry, protect it with a layer of matte varnish.


Avoid Painting In direct Sunlight

When painting outdoors it is important to follow a few easy steps in order to avoid, “Lap” marks which will show after the paint is dry. Latex paint has a molecular structure which allows vapors to pass through it, which prevent blistering. However, these same properties cause the paint to dry very quickly, especially on hot days, or in direct sunlight. It is best to paint your siding, or foundation in long runs across the house, a few layers at a time, rather than to paint section by section. You won’t see the lap marks until the paint is completely dry, but they will be there.


Asphalt Sealer Coating

Do not work in the sunshine, the best time would be evening or early morning shade.

Do not power wash.

1. Clean with T.S.P General Household Cleaner, heavy-duty mix. For any cracks or puddle areas, fill with premixed asphalt patch. Tamp in place with metal tamper.

2. For small cracks, use premixed asphalt crack repair.

3. Then apply asphalt sealer (not acrylic sealer) with a driveway brush, squeegee or 50 mm roller.

4. In the following years, clean with T.S.P General Household Cleaner and then seal with an acrylic sealer as needed.

Note: Never seal asphalt the first year, let the product cure and Harden.


Cheque Before Painting A Metal Roof

Most people know about galvanic action, the corrosive effect that occurs when incompatible metals come into contact. But few people are aware of the damage to galvanised iron gutters and downpipes that can occur when an old roof is replaced with Zincalume, glazed tiles or painted metal sheeting. These materials, unlike roofing of galvanised steel, unglazed tiles or fibro, do not deposit metal salts and minerals as a protective coating on the inside of the gutter. Pure rainwater flowing from a chemically-inert roof may wash away the protective film on the inside of the galvanised guttering, causing rapid early gutter failure.