Home Suffers Earthquake

Problem: Home has suffered stress and damage from earth quake.

Background: For what to do during an earthquake. After an earthquake has struck, be prepared for additional earthquake shocks called “aftershocks.” Though most of these are smaller than the main shock, some may be large enough to cause additional damage. Respond to requests for help from police, fire fighting, civil defence, and relief organizations, but do not go into dam aged areas unless your help has been requested. Don’t go sightseeing, especially in beach and water front areas where seismic sea waves may strike. Keep the streets clear for emergency vehicles. Cooperate fully with public safety officials. (In some areas you may be arrested for get ting in the way of disaster operations.)

What to do: Check your family, those around you, and others in your neighborhood for injuries. Don’t attempt to move seriously injured people unless they are in immediate danger of further injury. Don’t use your phone except for genuine emergency calls. Use a radio for damage reports and information. Don’t share rumors or un verified stories; they often do great harm after disasters. Wear shoes, if possible, in all areas near debris or broken glass. Check for fires or fire hazards. Avoid downed power lines or objects touched by downed wires. Do not enter the home or neighborhood until approved by the authorities.

Special advice: When re-entering the neighborhood or home, check for damage to utility lines and appliances. Do not use matches, lighters, or open-flame appliances until you are sure that there are no gas leaks. Don’t operate electrical switches or appliances if gas leaks are suspected. If gas leaks exist, shut off the main gas valve. If there is damage to home wiring, shut off the electrical power. Report damage to the utility companies and follow their instructions. Approach chimneys with caution, first checking them from a distance. Check entire chimney lengths for cracks and damage, particularly in the attic and at the roof line. Unnoticed damage could lead to a fire. Check closets and storage shelf areas. Open closet and cupboard doors carefully and watch for falling objects. Check to see that sewage lines are intact before flushing toilets. Clean up spilled medicines, drugs, and other potentially harmful materials.

Helpful hint: Check your freezer and plan to use foods that will spoil quickly if the power is shut off. Don’t eat or drink anything from open containers near shattered glass. If the water is off, you can get emergency water from water heaters, toilet tanks, melted ice cubes, and canned vegetables.

Home Repair Glossary

Ampere: Unit of measure for the rate of flow of electrical energy (see volt); watts divided by volts equals amperes.

Anode rod: Device used inside water heaters to protect the tank against corrosion.

Auxiliary heaters: Heating devices used in addition to the main heating system, such as kerosene heaters, fireplaces, or electrical space heaters.

Awning window: A window that cranks out at the bottom by turning a crank handle; can provide ventilation even in rainy weather.

Basin wrench: Long tool with a flexible, self-gripping head that is used to turn hard-to-reach nuts that hold basins and faucets in place.

Blast bag: Slang term for hydraulic drain openers which are attached to a garden hose and pulsate under high water pressure.

Blower: In reference to forced, warm-air furnaces, the centrifugal fan driven by an electric motor that draws cold air from rooms through the cold-air ducts into the furnace and then forces warmed air back to ducts.

Blower belt: The V-belt which is used to link an electric motor to a centrifugal fan used in a forced, warm-air furnace.

Casement window: Hinged at one side, and may swing out or in as it is cranked by a handle.

Caulking: Procedure of sealing or weatherproofing cracks between materials; may also refer to the caulk material used, such as silicone caulking.

Closet auger: Special, flexible version of a clean-out auger designed for use in toilets; has protective tubing to protect ceramic toilets from scratches.

Cord clamp: Metal clamp with screws on the exterior of larger replacement plugs which is used to secure the cord to the plug.

Condensor switch: In air-conditioning systems, an additional switch that directly controls the motor which powers the fan and the compressor in a unit which is usually located outdoors.

Cotter pin: A hairpin-like fastener which is inserted through a hole (in a shaft, for example) with its two leg sections spread open to hold it in place.

Crocus cloth: Has powdered iron oxide on cloth backing; generally used for polishing.

Circuit breaker panel: Term for main service panel housing the main switches and branch circuits protected by circuit breakers. If circuits become overloaded, a circuit breaker trips to interrupt electrical flow to that circuit (see fuse box).

Cylinder lockset: Used on exterior doors; locked by key inserted into a cylinder within the outside knob, or with turn knob or push button on inner knob.

Double-hung window: Divided into two sections that ride in channels in the jamb on both sides; the top sash can be lowered, the bottom sash can be raised.

Drain cock: A faucet-like device that is turned to allow liquid to drain.

Drain (or disposal) field: A system of underground drain pipe in a private sewer disposal system which is connected to a septic tank through a distribution box.

Drive belt: The flexible V-belt which transfers power between motors and driven devices (see blower belt).

Drywall: Generic term for gypsum board used in place of lath and plaster to cover walls; Sheetrock is a brand name. May also be called wallboard or plasterboard.

Drywall tape: Narrow strips used, – along with joint compound, to finish joints in sections of drywall; may be made of paper or perforated paper without adhesive, or of fiberglass with adhesive backing.

Drywell: A device used to catch and hold water; may be a metal drum sunken into the ground, filled with rocks, and connected to drains to collect rainwater runoff.

Electrical conduit: Metal pathways that carry electric wires; may be greenfield (also known as flexible metal conduit), electric metallic tubing conduit (EMT), or BX cable (also known as armored cable, Type A.C.)

Electronic ignition: In a furnace, an electronic device which provides a direct spark to the main burner, eliminating the need for a pilot burner.

Emery cloth: Has emery abrasive, a natural mineral, on cloth backing; used for rust removal or for sanding metal.

Expansion nozzle: Another term for a hydraulic drain opener, a balloon-type device which connects to a garden hose and is inserted into clogged drains.

Faceplate: The metal plate surrounding the latchbolt that is inset into the door on the latch side.

Feathering: Gradual tapering of added material, such as drywall compound, over a distance so that changes in surface thickness are not noticeable.

Flat-wire plug: Electrical plug designed to accept wires that are flat, as opposed to wires that are round.

Float valve: A valve that opens and closes to keep water at a specific level in a container; generally actuated by the up-and-down movement of a float on the water’s surface.

Flywheel: A wheel of sufficient mass attached to a shaft to help provide continuous momentum.

Forced-air furnace: A furnace which heats and distributes air to the home using a fan to draw cooled air from the rooms through cold-air ductwork to the furnace heating chamber, and back to rooms through hot-air ducts.

Four-way switch: Used in combination with three-way switches when power must be turned on and off from more than two locations.

Fuse box: Term for main service panel that houses the main switches and branch circuits protected by fuses; if circuits become overloaded, a fuse burns out to interrupt electrical flow to that circuit (see circuit breaker pane!).

Glider window: Windows that can be opened and closed by sliding sections horizontally.

Ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI): Special receptacle or circuit breaker which detects current flow changes and quickly shuts off before shocks can occur; used in circuits supplying power to outlets in baths, kitchens, laundry rooms, or outdoors.

Gypsum board: A term used for wallboard (see drywall).

Hard-wired: Electrical-powered device which is wired directly into the electrical system of the home, as opposed to one that draws power from a plugged-in power cord or batteries.

Jalousie window: Consists of several narrow horizontal glass sections that pivot in unison for either opening or closing when a hand crank is turned.

Joists: Horizontal wood members that support either floors or ceilings.

Kilowatt: Equal to 1,000 watts; watts divided by 1,000 equals kilowatts. One kilowatt working for one hour equals one kilowatt-hour (kwh).

Media pad: In a home humidifier, the thin, fibrous material that picks up water to be evaporated; may be a smaller pad wrapped around a wheel framework in a central humidifier, or a larger, wider pad humidifier running over rollers in a portable.

Media wheel: In a home humidifier, the wheel-shaped framework that holds the media pad material in place (see media pad).

0-ring: Rubberbandlike ring, generally round in cross-section, which fits between two components to provide a seal.

Octopus plug: A special plug that allows several more plugs to be inserted; its use is ordinarily not recommended by safety specialists and electricians.

Oil heating system: System employing a furnace or stove that burns fuel oil; may be a forced-air system with a blower or a system that depends on the rise of warm air.

Packing nut: A nut with an interior recess that accepts packing material to help seal in a liquid, such as water or oil.

Pilot burner: Small flame that ignites a flame in main burners when fuel is turned on in appliances such as furnaces, water heaters, or kitchen ranges.

Plumber’s friend: Plunger with rubber cup on the end of a wooden handle, used to unclog fixture drains by vigorously moving up and down.

Plumbing fixture: A receptacle, such as a sink, basin, or toilet, that is connected to the plumbing system and collects and retains water or wastes for discharge.

Plumbing stack: Main vent into which all fixtures drain; it is also the vent pipe which emerges through the roof of the house.

Plumbing trap: Special curved fitting needed under all fixtures except toilets to prevent sewer gas from entering the home. Toilets have built-in traps.

Pressure-reducing valves: Special valves that reduce pressure sometimes employed in homes to lower pressure from water mains for use inside the home.

Quick-connect plug: Electrical plug connected by inserting the wires, with spikes making contact between the prongs of the plug and the wires.

Rafters: Sloping wooden members that support the roof of a home.

Receptacle: In electrical systems, outlets within electrical boxes mostly in walls and floors that accept plugs; the most common are those with openings for two plugs, called duplex receptacles; also sometimes referred to as plug-ins.

Replacement plug: Electrical plug, available in several varieties, designed to replace original plugs or other replacement plugs that have become defective.

Roof louvers: Series of slanted slots allowing for ventilation while repelling rain.

Roof vents: Openings that allow attic air to exit through the roof; may be assisted by power fans or wind-assisted turbine devices over the vent. Ridge vents are no mechanical vents installed along the roof ridge.

Romex: Non-metallic-sheathed electrical cable which can be used without metal raceways (see electrical conduit).

Round-cord plug: Electrical plug designed to accept wires that are round instead of flat.

Seat wrench: A special L-shaped tool used to remove a faucet seat; the seat mates with a washer fastened to the handle stem that is turned to close off the water supply.

Set-back thermostats: Programmable thermostats which save energy by automatically dropping the temperature setting for specific periods during heating seasons, or by raising the temperature settings during certain periods during the cooling season.

Sheeftock: Brand name for wallboard (see drywall).

Shims: Narrow strips of wood or other material used to increase thickness; common wood shims used in homes are thin at one end and thicker at the other, and are driven between adjoining wood members.

Single-pole switch: A switch that turns power on and off from only one point.

Soffit vents: Openings within the soffits (the underside of the roof overhang on the outside of the home).

Solenoid: Electronic device that moves on command to allow, for example, the opening and closing of valves.

Spiraled auger: A flexible “plumber’s snake” often made of coiled spring material with its working end configured in spiraling, hooklike manner.

Spline: Slotted grooves, usually on a shaft, designed to accept a second part with corresponding ridges and slots.

Strikeplate: The metal plate used around the hole in the doorjamb that accepts the latchbolt of a door lockset.

Subflooring: First layer of flooring material which lies directly over the floor joints; may be diagonal rough boards or plywood.

Sump pump: An electrically powered pump which is positioned in a “sump” or hole to pump out collected water when it reaches a certain level.

Temperature-pressure relief valve: Special valve used on water heaters that automatically opens before an increase in temperature or pressure could cause an explosion.

Terminal clips: Clips that are flat in configuration and that slip over prongs to make an electrical connection.

Three-way switch: Switch used in pairs to switch power on and off from two different locations.

Tilt-turn window: Newer style which tilts in at the top to provide ventilation and can turn a full 1800 for easy cleaning.

Trip lever: Device used to initiate operation of mechanisms (such as the handle on the tank of a toilet) that begins the flushing operation when pushed.

Tubular lockset: Mostly used in interior doors. May have a push button in its knob or a small lever or button on its interior side.

Underwriter’s knot: A special knot used when replacing plugs or cords (where space allows) to help reduce tension on wires connected to screw terminals.

Volt: Unit of measure for electrical pressure; volts times amperes equals watts or, expressed differently, (pressure) times (current flow) equals power.

Water-mixing valve: A device that mixes hot and cold water to produce water of specific temperatures.

Water-resistant gypsum board: Drywall sheets with a water-resistant paper wrapper for use in areas of high humidity.

Watt: Unit of measure for electrical energy. One ampere of current flow at a pressure of one volt equals one watt of electrical energy (see ampere and volt).

X-bridging: The wood or metal braces used between joists to brace one joist to the next to prevent twisting.

Painting Home Basics

Interior Painting

When painting a room, it¹s best to paint the ceiling first, followed by the walls, with the trim, cabinets, and doors painted last. Work from the top down. In order to keep a wet edge, only cut in one wall at a time before you begin painting with rollers.

Brushes are used to cut in around the ceiling, trim, windows, and doors before using a roller. They are also used to paint the trim, window frames and doors. There are a number of brush sizes available in both straight edge and angled sash. Your choice depends upon the size of the area you are painting and whether you prefer a straight edge or an angled sash. Rollers are a great time saver for painting larger flat surfaces such as ceilings and walls. Roller covers come in various nap lengths. Your choice depends upon whether the surface to be painted is smooth or if it is more textured. The more textured the surface, the longer the nap should be in order to allow the fibers to push the paint into the crevices on the surface.

High quality applicators will provide the best painting results. Cheap or low quality applicators can make the best quality paint look and perform poorly. Cheap roller covers do not spread the paint evenly on the surface, and often leave fuzz from the roller on the wall. Inexpensive brushes are harder to use because they do not spread the paint evenly and leave unsightly brush marks. High quality applicators can be cleaned and used again.

When painting, always work from the dry area into the adjoining wet paint area. Use the “N” technique when using a roller. Load the roller completely. Apply the paint in the form of an “N” in a 2¹ x 2¹ area. Fill in the center of the “N” with horizontal strokes from side to side. Lightly smooth the painted area with vertical strokes from top to bottom. Continue to use the “N” pattern with a freshly loaded roller directly below the first “N”, working until you reach the bottom of the wall.

Timesaving Tip: If you take a short break from painting, you can wrap your applicators tightly in a plastic bag or aluminum foil instead of washing them!

Always be sure to stir the paint thoroughly before using and do not thin the paint. If you are using more than one gallon of the same color, mix them together in order to insure color consistency. Paint when the room and surface temperature is 50ƒF or above. Avoid touching, wiping, or wetting a freshly painted surface for 30 days to allow the paint to completely cure. After 30 days, the painted surface can be cleaned with a mild, non-abrasive cleaner and water. Do not place or hang objects on the surface until the paint is thoroughly dry.

Remember: Its important to follow the directions on the back of the paint label. It contains the most important information you need for your painting project.

7 Home Repairs for $15

Keeping your home in tip-top condition doesn’t have to mean taking on big, expensive projects. Here are 15 repairs that can be accomplished for less than $15. Despite relatively small investments of time and money, each of these repairs helps make your home more comfortable, attractive and cost efficient.

Repair a Sink Sprayer: $5 or less
Mineral deposits in the aerator can rob a sink sprayer of its power. Unscrew the aerator from the sprayer and scrub it out with a toothbrush, then soak it in vinegar overnight. If that doesn’t solve the problem, turn off the water to the fixture and remove the faucet handle and spout. Inside the faucet body, you’ll find a small, round diverter valve. Scrub that valve with a toothbrush, coat new O-rings and washers with heat-proof grease, and reassemble the faucet.

Patch a Hole in Drywall: $8 or less
You can fix small holes and minor drywall damage in less than an hour. Scrape the area smooth, using a putty knife. Use the putty knife to fill small holes with ultra-light spackle. Sand when dry. Cover larger holes with nylon drywall tape, then use a broadknife to smooth a coat of joint compound over the area. When the compound is dry, add a second coat, feathering out the edges. Allow to dry. Sand, prime, and paint the repair.

Replace an Interior Door Handle: $15 & Up
When cleaning the mechanism isn’t enough to keep a doorknob from sticking, it’s time to replace the knob. Remove the screws holding the cover plates to the door, then pull the doorknob apart. Outside the door, insert the stem of the new doorknob into the latch case — the mechanism inside the hole in the door. Inside the door, fit the interior knob over the spindle and align the stems with the screw holes. Install a screw into the hole closest to the door edge. Install the other screw, and test the doorknob. If the latch sticks, loosen both screws slightly.

Weatherstrip a Window: $15 or less
This cost-effective fix is super simple, thanks to peel-and-stick weatherstripping. Remove old weatherstrip and thoroughly clean all surfaces. Cut self-adhesive foam or rubber compression strips to fit the outside edges of the window stops. Peel off the backing paper and press the weatherstripping into place.

Caulk a Bathtub: $15 or less
Caulk seals the joint between the bathtub and the wall, which keeps moisture out of the walls. To replace failed caulk, tape the edges of the joint with painter’s tape, and use a utility knife scrape out the old caulk. Thoroughly clean the joint, using a solution of hot water and bleach, then dry the area with a clean rag. Fill the tub with water to open the joint to its maximum capacity. Squeeze a thin bead of caulk into the joint, then use your index finger to smooth it out. Remove the tape.

Unclog a Showerhead: $5 or less
Mineral deposits can reduce a shower’s water pressure and even change its spray pattern. When this happens, an inexpensive jug of white vinegar holds the answer. Remove the showerhead, and use the end of a paper clip to scrape deposits out of the inlet holes. Soak the showerhead in vinegar overnight, then replace it. The pressure should be back.

Original Source

6 Home Repairs for $15

Stop a Running Toilet: $0
When a toilet runs after the flush is complete, adjusting the lift chain or float arm usually solves the problem. The lift chain should hang straight down from the handle with about half an inch of slack. Move the chain to provide more or less slack, as required. Or, if the toilet has lift wires, straighten them. If that doesn’t do the trick, try bending the float arm until the float ball does not touch the tank wall.

Install a GFCI: $15 & up
To install a GFCI for single-location protection (does not protect other devices on the same circuit), shut down the power at the service panel and test with a non-contact circuit tester to confirm that the power is off. Remove the white neutral wires on the old receptacle, and pigtail them to the white line terminal on the GFCI. Remove the black hot wires from the old receptacle, and pigtail them to the hot line terminal. Disconnect the grounding wires from the old receptacle and pigtail them to the grounding screw terminal on the GFCI. Mount the GFCI and attach the cover. Turn on the power and test the GFCI.

Repair a Broken Lamp: $0
If the bulb is good and the circuit is operating but the lamp won’t light, the connections may be loose. Unplug the lamp and remove the light bulb. Use a screwdriver to pry up the metal tab at the bottom of the lamp socket. If that doesn’t solve the problem, pop the socket open. Loosen the screw terminals and reshape the C-shaped loops. Secure the loops around the screw terminals and tighten the screws. Pop the socket back into place, insert a lightbulb and test the lamp.

Seal a Leaky Downspout: $15 or less
Downspouts tend to be quite durable, but joints can work loose and leak. Tightening and sealing the joint is a quick and lasting solution. Take the leaky joint apart and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub it clean. Wash the mating pieces and dry them thoroughly. Apply a bead of caulk at the seam line, position the pieces, and secure the joint with new fasteners.

Caulk Around a Window: $15
Gaps around windows and doors leak air, which means higher utility bills. Seal those gaps with silicone caulk. First, scrape out any failed caulk and clean the joint. Cut off the nozzle on a tube of caulk, angling the nozzle. Insert the tube into a caulk gun, and squeeze a smooth, even bead of caulk into the joint between the window frame and the siding.

Secure a Front Door: $15
Thieves can kick in the average door in moments, but sturdy hardware makes a door stronger and more secure. Fill the gap between the door frame and surrounding wall studs with plywood shims, and replace short hinge screws with 3- to 4-inch screws. Install metal plates to reinforce deadbolt locks and strike plates.

Original Source

Home Wiring Inadequate

Problem: Excess demand on electrical system, which shows up as blown fuses, tripped circuit breakers, dim or flickering lights, or appliances that operate at only partial capacity.

Background: Electrical requirements for the average home have- almost tripled since 1955. In 1940, for example, the average home used 30 electrical appliances while today’s home uses about 80. The electrical systems of about 90% of homes in the United States are not designed to accommodate the number of appliances currently avail able. Many homes over 20 years old require complete rewiring, and even a number of newer homes need either rewiring or expanded wiring systems (including new circuits) to handle major appliances.

What to do: If your home’s wiring system has any of the symptoms listed below, the individual circuits may be overloaded or the wiring of these circuits may be inadequate.

Blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers: When fuses blow and circuit breakers trip frequently, it indicates an overloaded circuit, or that the power drain from appliances is greater than the circuit can handle. Short circuiting in appliances or wiring could also be the problem.
Lights dim or flicker: This problem can be caused by having too many appliances on one circuit, or by putting too large of a power drain on the circuit when specific appliances are turned on. (It may also be caused by electrical storms or by voltage drops at the power plant.)
Appliances with heating coils warm up slowly: Inadequate wiring may be indicated by electric space heaters and hot plates that are slow to warm up, and by similar appliances that re quire high power and seem to be operating on decreased power.
Television picture shrinks: If the image on your TV is smaller than the picture tube area, the circuit could be overloaded with too many appliances or extension cords. If it occurs only occasionally, it is probably caused by the heavy current drain of appliances that are started up on the same circuit.
Air conditioners work at less than full capacity: The heavy power needs of air-conditioner compressors can require more line voltage than circuits provide. With large air-conditioning units, separate circuits may be needed.
Special advice: When in doubt about any electrical wiring problem, consult an electrician. Always use caution when working with electricity. Before proceeding with any electrical work, make sure the main disconnect on the service entrance panel is in the “off” position, or pull the main fuses if the panel is the cartridge fuse type. When working on individual receptacles or light switches, also turn off the circuit breaker for the circuit you will be working on, and test the receptacle with a test light before handling bare wires.

Helpful hint: Never stand on a wet or damp floor when working at the service panel. Wear rubber gloves and stand on a rubber mat for added safety.



Scrape off the affected area, sand, apply knotting, and redcoat when dry.

Keep equipment and paint clean to minimize the risk of paint faults. Surfaces should be clean, dry, and dust-free. Paint should be fresh or sieved and always applied to a compatible undercoat. Keep paint can lids well sealed. To close a can, place a piece of wood over the lid and hammer it shut. Store brushes paint pads, and rollers in a dry place, wrapped in lint-free cloth or paper.

Let the paint dry. Rub with sandpaper, clean off the dust, and then recoat.

Occurs when-paint is applied before first coat is dry. Strip and recoat.

If grit is embedded in thy paint, sand lightly, brush, and wipe off when thy.

Strip pant (if open- grain d wood fill), prime und r oat, and then repaint.

If the undercoat shows through, apply another layer of latex paint.

Surface as not properly prepared Strip, prepare surface, and repaint.

Coat the painted surface with an aluminum primer sealer and repaint.

Occurs when paints are incompatible. Strip and prepare surface. Repaint.

In dry paint, sand and recoat the area. In wet paint, brush off and touch up.

Home Painting Tips

Painting Tips & Ideas

Your home is the best place to spend your quiet moments together with your family. You can do whatever you like and you get to choose your home’s color every time you need to paint it.

Many families prefer to change their home’s paint when the season changes and they feel that a new coat of paint is already necessary. Summer comes after the winter, so you might want to have your home’s atmosphere changed to accommodate the summer feel. This is easily done by painting your home. Just make sure that you paint it with colors that depict the summer time.

Check out these cool tips so that you can decorate and paint your home for the summer:

1. When you talk about summer, you instantly think of lively colors. Everything seems so bright when summer comes and so there is a need to change your home’s paint into bright colors. By using bright colored paints, your home will open up and it’s like bringing the outside world inside.

2. Have you heard about decorative painting? This is a technique used in painting which is divided into sponging, stenciling/stamping, and ragging. By using these different techniques, it would be a lot easier to brighten the dull house paint that you now have.

3. Before starting the actual painting, you should pick the right color scheme for your home. Remember that the techniques mentioned above require the use of two shades so this is very important step that you have to never forget.

4. If you prefer to sponge your wall, or rag it perhaps, paint first the base color. Leave it to dry thoroughly. Afterwards, dip the rag or sponge to the lighter color paint that you’ve chosen. Drag or sponge the light colored paint over your base coat; do this until you’re satisfied with the effect.

5. If after your painting home summer-project you’re not that satisfied with some of the results, repaint those areas using your base coat.

6. Some people like to do stamping or stenciling when they paint their homes. This technique creates a design that looks like wallpaper over the base coat. Choose a design that has something to do with the summer. It takes just a few artistic touches and creativity to create something that depicts summer season.

7. Choose the paint for your home carefully, as well as the tools needed. Prepare the walls where you need to change the paint. This way, you can expect a much better result.

8. Visit your local paint shops or hardware for the paints that you’ll need. You can even consult the people there and ask for pieces of advice regarding painting your home with a summer theme. The people there will be most willing to test small amounts of paint for your desired color scheme.

9. If you have excess paints, make sure that you keep them in metal cans that are airtight and sealed. The shelf life of paints is reduced once the can is opened, so you can only keep it for a short time for later use.

Now, there are a lot of paint colors that you can choose for your home painting project. The paint greatly varies from texture, color, to patterns. The color of paint that you choose can affect your home’s structures and other things inside your home. So make sure that you choose the right color for the different rooms of you house. The colors should blend together to create the perfect summer atmosphere for your home.

Home Painting Ideas

When one decides to have his house painted, the most difficult part of the decision usually comes when choosing the finest colors that would complement one room to another.

Paint colors can really do wonders to one’s house. The truth is, it can revitalize a home’s surface, from the ceilings to the walls and the exterior. However, it is also a fact that choosing among the thousands of available colors for house painting can make one’s mind go numb.

Since there are numbers of people who are getting confused as to what colors they would settle on for their home, there are several guidelines conceptualized to provide great color ideas for home painting.

These ideas for home painting will help one to select the colors that would perfectly match their house. Not that alone, home painting ideas that are presented here will also serve as a guide for one when deciding of changing the color of his house by simply counting on his own perceptions of colors.

All of these can be possible without creating a strain in both of a person’s mind and purse. How? Just a simple knowledge in color combinations including their effects will do.

The home painting ideas that will be tackled here is different compared to the others. Here, you would know the four very vital ideas in home painting. These are the hue, intensity, temperature and value.

Why are they vital? It’s very simple, these four home painting ideas would serve as the key for one to create a wonderful combinations for his home painting.

The four key ideas for home painting:

• Hue-this is actually a synonym of the term color. Therefore, all colors are hues. Normally, hue refers to prime colors’ combinations along with diverse values as well as intensities.

• Intensity – This is term used when judging the colors’ brightness. Intensity can only be either bright if not dull. When you perceive the color as light, medium or dark, it is the value that you are evaluating.

• Temperature-colors usually come with warmness and coolness. For instance, red and yellow are considered as warm. Meanwhile, blue and lime are known to be cool. The color beige though is referred to as a neutral color, the mixture of warm and cool.

• Value – this pertains to the color’s lightness and darkness. The term value is actually synonymous to tint, tone and shade. Therefore, the added amount of colors white, gray, and black to a pure color is being determined by value. This will later be judged whether it is light colored, medium, or dark.

As one masters these four ideas his home painting’s color selection will be more exciting.

As for guarantee, finding the right color temperature will eventually assist in setting the mood in the rooms of one’s house. And this will have a vital part in affecting his views of the space.
Another idea for home painting is varying the house paint from one color to one with combinations. Through this the aesthetic appeal of your home will likewise change. Knowing the four key ideas of home painting, this will not be a tough task.

Also, included in the goal, these four ideas will guide a person to establish balance in his home painting. And as he understands the colors including their effects to his mood, coming up with a good choice will not be that hard too.

Other ideas for home painting can be found just by simply browsing magazines as well as books. These are inexpensive good inspirational resources. From those ideas presented for home painting, start to picture the kind of home painting you would want to have.

Home Painting Techniques

Painting is one skill which could only be mastered if you truly understand how the medium, that is the paint, could be utilized. You have to learn how to control the paint itself and then master its usage. There are likewise various home painting techniques that you need to become aware of especially if you intend to do it yourself. Do not worry because almost everyone begins with home painting technique as a neophyte.

Whether or not you plan to redesign the whole package of your home or if you only wish to refurnish one side say the kitchen or bathroom area, you still need to become aware of the home painting techniques that you have to apply. You may always find the first time you try out home painting by yourself an intimidating task. How much more if you really are not equipped with enough knowledge of the home painting techniques, right? This article is then a must-read since it would be tackling some of the commonly adopted home painting techniques as elaborated by many professionals. Your task would then be made easier and you would likely be able to come up with a laudable quality creation.

Choosing the Paint to Use

Doing it yourself would always be a daunting task, so to speak. Home painting professionals agree that the latex paint is to be highly used both for the painting applications of the outdoor and indoor home areas. The latex paint is known to smoothly apply. It wears best and could be cleaned up simply. As a way of refuting the myth, the latex paints do not involve oil-based ingredients. The base is in itself water-soluble. And it goes to say that the rollers and brushes may at any rate be cleaned up using the warm and soapy water. Another good point with the latex paint is that the spills may be thoroughly cleaned up even without using some toluene-based or mineral spirit solvents.

Many of today’s paints are in some limited number of colors which come standard to them. The common finishes that you may want to consider to blend with your base include flat, satin, eggshell, semi-gloss, and high gloss. Just a warning though: the higher level the gloss is with the finish, the harder it is to retouch any error in the home painting technique. The higher level of the gloss is, the more imperfections are likely to show up in the surface.

Tips and Concepts in Home Painting Techniques

Never paint your home out of the paint can itself. While you go about with painting, the brushes or rollers pick up dust and dirt which may bring about the impurities into the surface. The paint would also dry up in the course of time.

If the paint can is open for a long period of time, it would react to the air where it is being exposed. The paint then would become sticker and thicker. Remember that the air could dry up the paint.

The paint can must only be used to store the paint in and never to be carried around the area.

Only use at least half an inch of the paint into the bucket that you are to utilize for painting. If the bucket is accidentally spilled, you would need to clean a big mess and then lose much of it.

Always put back the cap on the paint can lid as you are done with pouring it out.

Home painting techniques are easy to remember especially if you are serious in dealing with your task.